Reef Discussion
IME, always use vodka. I know my PO4 source is from mysis shrimps (as I feed my fish).. went to overseas 3 wks and expected my sis couldnt do water change (she is afraid of killing them even tho I gave her the instruction how to)... PO4 went to 2.5 then I switched the fish food from mySis to dry one. When I feed them I switch off the power head, put a bit first, when they finish then 2nd round and so on. Try to reduce the amount of sinking at the bottom. Does the vodka at the same time then I got the reading around 0.4 in about a month (plus a bit water change too)
Hey chimaera,
No real update.
NO3 has fallen slightly to 1-1.5ppm, PO4 is still just as high.
I have cut down feeding by 75%, so will see where it settles this week. I know a week doesn't equate to long term results, but it's indicative of heading in the right direction.
I lost a Redline Cleaner on Sunday morning :( :( :( It's the most devastated I've been since starting the tank. I loved the pair of redlines, now I have one :( Not sure if the (unlocateable) mantis got it or something something else caused the death. I saw the mantis picking at the dead shrimp, along with the huge worm I have.
No real update.
NO3 has fallen slightly to 1-1.5ppm, PO4 is still just as high.
I have cut down feeding by 75%, so will see where it settles this week. I know a week doesn't equate to long term results, but it's indicative of heading in the right direction.
I lost a Redline Cleaner on Sunday morning :( :( :( It's the most devastated I've been since starting the tank. I loved the pair of redlines, now I have one :( Not sure if the (unlocateable) mantis got it or something something else caused the death. I saw the mantis picking at the dead shrimp, along with the huge worm I have.
just be wary, red lines are like the canary's of reef tank, they are always the first to go if there are issues with the water quality,
i had a similar reaction when i sprayed surface spray to close to the tank (must have floated from the air and landed in the water,)
within a few hours the redline was paralized it couldn't move, it passed latter on, few hours latter all the fish were breathing heavy, not moving lack of appetite, did a huge WC and everything else survived luckily.
not saying thats what happened but it is a possibility! goodluck!
i had a similar reaction when i sprayed surface spray to close to the tank (must have floated from the air and landed in the water,)
within a few hours the redline was paralized it couldn't move, it passed latter on, few hours latter all the fish were breathing heavy, not moving lack of appetite, did a huge WC and everything else survived luckily.
not saying thats what happened but it is a possibility! goodluck!
Thanks MTG.
It was a weird morning, some of my fish were "yawning", which I thought was odd, so quickly got the test kits out. No apparent problems. But within an hour everyone was happy again. And so far this week, all is well. It's been a nervous week.
But I shall press on.... whatever happens, it'll be for a reason, and I'll no doubt learn some more.
It was a weird morning, some of my fish were "yawning", which I thought was odd, so quickly got the test kits out. No apparent problems. But within an hour everyone was happy again. And so far this week, all is well. It's been a nervous week.
But I shall press on.... whatever happens, it'll be for a reason, and I'll no doubt learn some more.
i have to disagree with everyones thoughts on reducing the amount of organic carbon to reduce nutrient.
The redfield ratio is simple, and ill talk in the assumed bacteria ratio here of 50ppm Organic carbon (OC) to 10ppm nitrate (N) to 1ppm phosphate (P).
if you still have nitrate and phosphate, and it is not climbing, then it is holding it there (your current dose that is).
Liquid organic carbon dosing is very quick, hetertrophic bacteria, which is the bacteria you are using to assimilate the nutrient N and P, reproduce very quickly.
I have seen drops in phosphate of over 1.5ppm in 6 hours using OC and N dosing. it happens exceedingly quickly.
It is simple science, if your N and P are not reducing, you dont have enough organic Carbon. you need OC AND N AND P all in the right ratios to reduce N and P.
if your nutrient load is above what the current N and P values are with your current amount of OC addition, then to reduce them, you need to add more OC. But, do it slowly.
no matter what size your tank it, if you have N and P in elevated levels and you are using organic carbon to reduce them, if you need more OC you need more OC.
it may be that your system is not mature enough, your skimmer not big enough or your just going through a spike, and you may very well be able to reduce it in the future. but for now, my experience and advice is to increase the amount of OC.
Biopellets work slightly different in that the bacteria need to attach via biofilm to the outside of the pellet to reduce the nutrient, so reduction takes longer and addition of more biopellet runs less of a risk of overdose as it is not at as high of risk to break down into the water column, however the same rule still applies.
The redfield ratio is simple, and ill talk in the assumed bacteria ratio here of 50ppm Organic carbon (OC) to 10ppm nitrate (N) to 1ppm phosphate (P).
if you still have nitrate and phosphate, and it is not climbing, then it is holding it there (your current dose that is).
Liquid organic carbon dosing is very quick, hetertrophic bacteria, which is the bacteria you are using to assimilate the nutrient N and P, reproduce very quickly.
I have seen drops in phosphate of over 1.5ppm in 6 hours using OC and N dosing. it happens exceedingly quickly.
It is simple science, if your N and P are not reducing, you dont have enough organic Carbon. you need OC AND N AND P all in the right ratios to reduce N and P.
if your nutrient load is above what the current N and P values are with your current amount of OC addition, then to reduce them, you need to add more OC. But, do it slowly.
no matter what size your tank it, if you have N and P in elevated levels and you are using organic carbon to reduce them, if you need more OC you need more OC.
it may be that your system is not mature enough, your skimmer not big enough or your just going through a spike, and you may very well be able to reduce it in the future. but for now, my experience and advice is to increase the amount of OC.
Biopellets work slightly different in that the bacteria need to attach via biofilm to the outside of the pellet to reduce the nutrient, so reduction takes longer and addition of more biopellet runs less of a risk of overdose as it is not at as high of risk to break down into the water column, however the same rule still applies.
Hi everyone, sorry I've been gone for so long (work commitments)
Thanks Mav, appreciate your thoughts.
The tank is stabilising, (note, I said stabilising, not stabilised)
I decided to switch to the bio-pellets, and let it run its course. I have stopped testing everything except salinity in this tank. Everything in my tank seems happier than ever, with just water changes and the bio-pellets running. I reduced my feeding a little too. Unfortunately I've lost both my red-lines, bubble coral, and a yellow-striped cardinal (I actually think it got stung by the BTA, or bullied to death)
I'm continuing with water changes for the time being, not worrying about parameters. I have very healthy zoas (lost a few in the last few months), very healthy scolly's, very healthy mushrooms, Elegance coral is bigger than ever, everything is just happy, so I'm not messing with it.
I'll try to keep you all updated.
Thanks Mav, appreciate your thoughts.
The tank is stabilising, (note, I said stabilising, not stabilised)
I decided to switch to the bio-pellets, and let it run its course. I have stopped testing everything except salinity in this tank. Everything in my tank seems happier than ever, with just water changes and the bio-pellets running. I reduced my feeding a little too. Unfortunately I've lost both my red-lines, bubble coral, and a yellow-striped cardinal (I actually think it got stung by the BTA, or bullied to death)
I'm continuing with water changes for the time being, not worrying about parameters. I have very healthy zoas (lost a few in the last few months), very healthy scolly's, very healthy mushrooms, Elegance coral is bigger than ever, everything is just happy, so I'm not messing with it.
I'll try to keep you all updated.
