Reef Discussion
I have not kept this species so I have no direct experience but ...
they can grow in excess of 50cm and have a strong sting - in a tank your size you will be unlikely to be able to keep other corals, especially if it started to move around. You would also need to ensure that it couldn't get sucked into any of your powerheads.
they can grow in excess of 50cm and have a strong sting - in a tank your size you will be unlikely to be able to keep other corals, especially if it started to move around. You would also need to ensure that it couldn't get sucked into any of your powerheads.
Enlighten me @MagicJ
I will be needing this
And what to tie it to the wavemakers?
Will it get clogged often from your experience?
I will be needing this
And what to tie it to the wavemakers?
Will it get clogged often from your experience?
If you got rid of all the coral and just had adequate live rock (to support the anemone and clowns), a single big anemone would make a great display in the two footer.
Why not try first with a really nice bta?
I'm envious of basic set ups like having only a few, but large corals rather than little bits and pieces here and there. As my hammers and hydnophoria have grown I have thought about getting rid of my other smaller corals and just having save five corals. Imagine the reduced chemical warfare! Problem is I'm starting to get a lot of lower areas of my tank that are shadowed by the higher placed hammers and hydnophoria.
A centred big anemone sitting over a plateau of live rock would look great!
Why not try first with a really nice bta?
I'm envious of basic set ups like having only a few, but large corals rather than little bits and pieces here and there. As my hammers and hydnophoria have grown I have thought about getting rid of my other smaller corals and just having save five corals. Imagine the reduced chemical warfare! Problem is I'm starting to get a lot of lower areas of my tank that are shadowed by the higher placed hammers and hydnophoria.
A centred big anemone sitting over a plateau of live rock would look great!
@Savage Henry with budget as low as < $300, I'm tempted in getting a small RBTA or a huge Magnifica.
Still considering at the moment which of the two, I should be ordering.
With such low budget, I'll be trading size to colour, with RBTA, small but striking colour or Magnifica, big but less striking colour.
Still considering at the moment which of the two, I should be ordering.
With such low budget, I'll be trading size to colour, with RBTA, small but striking colour or Magnifica, big but less striking colour.
Something like that can work to a certain extent, but it's not fullproof - it also requires a lot of maintenance and can be unsightly.
This might give you some ideas - http://www.reef2reef.com/threads/diy-anemone-guards.185803/
Personally, I would be looking at making/getting made a clear acrylic guard - please do not just assume that everything will be OK, in many cases it is not.
Thanks for the info, @lukusis.
I'm just suddenly so inspired by Melev's Anemone 2ft tank, look so nice and so lucky to have them all centred in the middle of the tank.
@suta42 thanks Angie, always insightful! Good thinking, less meat to deteriorate, less Ammonia spike
@MagicJ thanks mate for the link, will look at it.
Its a great tank I have to admit.
If you go the BTA route, dont feed them too frequently.
I started with one, fed it every other day, in short order I ended up with 3, cut back the feeding and it stopped for a while until the largest split off two more smaller ones. I ended up feeding them once a week and they didn't split anymore.
I'm talking about direct feedings. Anything the clowns dropped in was all OK too. :D
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So here I am, was worrying about anemone got sucked into wavemakers and it's fully deflated on day 2 (even when the light is on) but it hasn't moved since yesterday night, so am assuming it's happy with its spot (maybe).
When it was in yesterday, it was fully open, not as big as when it was in the seller's tank but big enough.
When it was in yesterday, it was fully open, not as big as when it was in the seller's tank but big enough.
Which anemone did you get? ritteri anemones are difficult at best. They need very intense lighting and lots of movement. They move a lot when things aren't to their liking so you have to watch them like a hawk to avoid disaster around wave pumps. The one in my journal was moved to a 4x2 and has since split 3 times. No rhyme or reason to it either, it gets to about 40cm and splits off. I keep mine under 250w metal halides, 6500k Iwasaki bulbs which are getting harder and harder to source. I have been trying them under different LEDs with little success. They seem to need more in the red, orange, yellow end of the spectrum instead of the blue, green end.
They take up to a week to totally settle in and open up completely. The green based ones I just got from Australia took 8 days to fully open and look nice. The ones out of Africa and Indonesia open up within 3-4 days and look great
If they're emitting a lot of slime, something's amiss and you're going to need to take action quickly with antibiotics. ritteris can melt in a very few days, 3 to be exact.
You're also going to need to ditch whatever corals you have in there, ritteris will kill them and they can open wounds on the ritteri that will cause its demise. My monster wiped out a plating Montipora, Galaxea and Turbinaria.
They take up to a week to totally settle in and open up completely. The green based ones I just got from Australia took 8 days to fully open and look nice. The ones out of Africa and Indonesia open up within 3-4 days and look great
If they're emitting a lot of slime, something's amiss and you're going to need to take action quickly with antibiotics. ritteris can melt in a very few days, 3 to be exact.
You're also going to need to ditch whatever corals you have in there, ritteris will kill them and they can open wounds on the ritteri that will cause its demise. My monster wiped out a plating Montipora, Galaxea and Turbinaria.
@ReeferRob just a purple (pink) (magenta) tip BTA.
It's good, I'm quite confident it's a healthy specimen and I have upped my water param too, so a matter of the BTA to acclimate.
The only regret is that I didn't do any acclimation. In goes it straight to the tank from the bucket. It was only 4 mins drive, so I thought dump it in.
It's good, I'm quite confident it's a healthy specimen and I have upped my water param too, so a matter of the BTA to acclimate.
The only regret is that I didn't do any acclimation. In goes it straight to the tank from the bucket. It was only 4 mins drive, so I thought dump it in.
BTAs are pretty tough customers. I have reds, yellow acid rains and Fiji lightning strike BTAs and they split like mad. All the hooey about ZOMG MUST DRIP ACCLIMATE FOR 11TY HOURS is a pile of shit. I've been importing for close to 30 years. When they land here, they're very stressed at best and worst an anemone milkshake in a bag. As long as the salinity is close, then you're good to go. For me, anemones are the first out of the box and into the tank, in the business it's called "chop and drop". I have a system for them with fairly strong flow to flush out any toxins. Watch the lighting for the first week, I usually lift the halides up 25cm, then bring it down a few a day till it's back where it was. When you want a BTA to split all you need to do is a large water change.
Thanks @ReeferRob
Just one more question while I got you here
In REEF2REEF, they have this compatibility list; it's like a matrix. One that strikes me odd is BTA can't be put side-by-side to another BTA.
I've seen many cases, one of them is Melev's Anemone cube tank where the Anemone touches each other.
So what's your take on this?
Just one more question while I got you here
In REEF2REEF, they have this compatibility list; it's like a matrix. One that strikes me odd is BTA can't be put side-by-side to another BTA.
I've seen many cases, one of them is Melev's Anemone cube tank where the Anemone touches each other.
So what's your take on this?
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