Tank Journal Archive

Tannum_Paul

Member
Jun 18, 2015
161
77
Tannum Sands
Power Management
So here is the build process for my power management.

What you see here is the start, it is a six point power board that has had the back removed getting ready to be modified to insert switches.

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Here is the picture showing a close up of how the switches will be wired, the active bar (brown) was cut into 6 pieces and had wires soldered on. The active wire from the power cord was extended.

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Just a view of how the wires are soldered on then cut into 6 pieces to be inserted back into the power board ready for a switch to be added.

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At this point I started to build the actual draw which everything will fit into. As you can see I cut the sides, front and back then slotted them with the tablesaw for the bottom of the draw to fit into.

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The draw put together and now putting on edge banding to help make it all look pretty!

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A look at the finished product, as you can see the powerboards are glued into a piece of acrylic which is mounted into the draw, the wires then run out of the power boards into the switches which are mounted into the draw front in a second sheet of acrylic.

Of course just not to zap myself (all wires are double insulated with heat shrink) I have placed a cover over the top.

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Nice and neat and tidy now!!! Much better!!

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lukusis

Member
Sep 3, 2014
415
144
Looks great! That's pretty much the same as my STC controller wiring :)
 

Sam Parker

Moderator
May 6, 2013
4,802
2,397
Geelong
Sensational work!!!!

If I was to be picky, I'd probably tried to have used brown wire to/from the switches, but that is being mighty picky!
 

Tannum_Paul

Member
Jun 18, 2015
161
77
Tannum Sands
Just curious how your chiller breathes being in there
There is a 20mm gap at the bottom of the door to allow cool air into the cabinet (Red Sea cabinets always have that) and directly behind the chiller is a hole cut in the board to the same size as the warm air vent coming out of the chiller.

I have then sealed the chiller onto the board so that as it draws air it comes in from the front under the door (cool air) and blows hot air out the hole with no means of getting back into the cabinet.
 

Tannum_Paul

Member
Jun 18, 2015
161
77
Tannum Sands
Sensational work!!!!

If I was to be picky, I'd probably tried to have used brown wire to/from the switches, but that is being mighty picky!
Trust me I did look for brown wire at Bunnings, I was looking for 2.5mm wire and earth wire was the only colour that size. If I was to build it again I would use the active wire from the reel of house triple wire I have here in a cupboard.

I did as much as possible colour the ends on the active wire with red heat shrink and the neutral wires with blue heat shrink.

I want to finish coating the other active wires with red heat shrink anyways since there is metal on the spade connector showing and I am ANAL about covering active wires even if they are behind acrylic.