Tank Journal Archive

[leodb89]

So here are the pictures of the sump and the lighting I've installed, they have a pretty crappy design that they can only be installed as a single strip but I found this on he good ol' eBay and found a guy in Hurstville that sold them so luckily got it before the weekend.

Filtration

Lighting

 

[Sam Parker]

is there a door switch on those cabinet LED's? If not, simple to add in and will reduce any unwanted algae growing in your sump

 

[leodb89]

is there a door switch on those cabinet LED's? If not, simple to add in and will reduce any unwanted algae growing in your sump

It's a physical switch which remains off but I'd be more than happy for you to send me a link to the parts needed, is it called an R switch? or is there an easier way?

 

[Sam Parker]

I just use basic magnetic switches from jaycar. They sell a nice normally open/closed for like $5

 

[leodb89]

I just use basic magnetic switches from jaycar. They sell a nice normally open/closed for like $5

Can you link it?

 

[ezza]

are those lights the trulumen strip lights? or the crappy bunnings version? i tried the bunnings ones for a time, but they failed as they are most definitely not made to last even though theoretically they're able to be used in "weather".

it looks so nice :) so streamlined and tidy.

 

[leodb89]

are those lights the trulumen strip lights? or the crappy bunnings version? i tried the bunnings ones for a time, but they failed as they are most definitely not made to last even though theoretically they're able to be used in "weather".

it looks so nice :) so streamlined and tidy.

The crappy bunnings ones lol...theres no condensation inside the cabinted because of the sump cover so hopefully they last a bit, if not easily replaced

 

[ezza]

yes, good luck! i found lights in certain spectrums died first before the white ones finally left a bit patchy and i figured it was time to chuck it. maybe tape around the connectors with some waterproof tape. i would consider using them in the sump area due to more ventilation and less moisture.

 

[leodb89]

Yeah they're purely for enabling light when working on the sump

 

[Sam Parker]

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=LA5070

 

[Wrangy]

Looks shit, you should just give up!

I'd say you've done a pretty friggin wicked job given the space allowance that you've got Leo :)

 

[leodb89]

Looks shit, you should just give up!

I'd say you've done a pretty friggin wicked job given the space allowance that you've got Leo :)

Well thank you kind sir.

@NiCd hasn't seen these yet and will probably tell me I put the carbon and the MarinePure in the wrong chambers lol, and also tell me that I should've put something into the marine pure to act as a tab to pull out the MarinePure if I am wrong lol

 

[leodb89]

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=LA5070

Thanks :)

 

[leodb89]

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=LA5070

Gonna need to buy the IO breakout box to have this working though hmmm might look into something similar maybe a sensor that has an aus power plug on it

 

[Sam Parker]

Gonna need to buy the IO breakout box to have this working though hmmm might look into something similar maybe a sensor that has an aus power plug on it

You don't need the breakout box, unless you want your apex to control your cabinet lighting?! If your going to go that far, put a sonar sensor in there and have the lights get brighter via PWM the closer you get. hahahahaha

Just cut out one wire to the switch that is wired to the LED's now (assuming it is after the power supply and you have turned it off....), put one side to common (the middle screw) and the other wire to N.O ( I think, I cant remember if the "normal" state is with magnet nearby or not.. If that works backwards, then connect to the N.C. terminal). Mount the magnet on the door (it comes with double sided tape) and mount the sensor on the cabinet frame - job done!

 

[leodb89]

You don't need the breakout box, unless you want your apex to control your cabinet lighting?! If your going to go that far, put a sonar sensor in there and have the lights get brighter via PWM the closer you get. hahahahaha

Just cut out the switch that is wired to the LED's now (assuming it is after the power supply and you have turned it off....), put one wire to common (the middle screw) and one wire to N.O ( I think, I cant remember if the "normal" state is with magnet nearby or not.. If that works backwards, then connect to the N.C. terminal). Mount the magnet on the door (it comes with double sided tape) and mount the sensor on the cabinet frame - job done!

Only reason I think this is because if you look at the picture below, the cabling from the light has the connection to the power supply so not sure how I would do this?

http://thereefuge.com/attachments/sump-lighting-6-jpg.42505/

 

[Sam Parker]

Epic paint diagram

 

[leodb89]

Epic paint diagram
View attachment 42573

Is it safe haha

 

[Sam Parker]

of course it is! The plug pack that connects to the wall will be a dc power supply, even if you manage to get it completely wrong, you are working with safe levels of DC power (I'll hazard a guess at 12vdc at around 500ma?)

To be honest, a decent jaycar store would probably do it for you!

 

[leodb89]

of course it is! The plug pack that connects to the wall will be a dc power supply, even if you manage to get it completely wrong, you are working with safe levels of DC power (I'll hazard a guess at 12vdc at around 500ma?)

To be honest, a decent jaycar store would probably do it for you!

Decent? don't know if any stores in Sydney have that word in their vocabulary lol