Tank Journal Archive

[gigglypig]

After figuring out to assemble the bulkhead(thank china instructions =/) the tank was finally plumbed and ready to go.
I used tap water topped with prime until tank and sump were full, Then ran the return to make some adjustments to the water level in the weir. It took almost 2 hrs to get this almost right!!! I dont know if anyone has done this but it was tweaking the return and drain ball valve many times so it wouldn't sound like a waterfall. I think I have the levels almost right. Is the water in the weir meant to fluctuate on occasion about a few mm's? Pic attached
The plumbing is still a little noisy due to the drain. Any ideas on how to silence this?
Glad the tank is downstairs and barely audible.

I put in the tunze to circulate the water then added some salt slowly. I did this overnight giving it plenty of time to dissolve.

Im quite happy with the progress. Once the sand goes in, the livestock will follow as soon a levels are stable.

 

[Ben Broadfoot]

If there are two outlets in your overflow (#1 on full siphon, #2 just taking a little water) the water level should remain constant in the overflow. Leave #2 fully open, and restrict #1 so that #2 is just taking a dribble of water. This is essentially a Bean Animal overflow without the emergency #3 outlet.

Before you put any livestock in I'd seriously consider buying a RODI unit, and changing all of the tapwater out. Tapwater will give you nightmares. Being able to add clean water to the tank is the most important factor for having an enjoyable reefing experience, but you're shooting yourself in the foot if you use tapwater.

 

[Tom H]

I found the plumbing in my Cade to be pretty noisy too. I think the main design flaw is the right angle bend at the bottom of the two overflow pipes. I bought some foam pipe insulation from Bunnings and slipped it over the two overflow pipes between the bottom of the weir and the sump, I also extended the two pipes slightly so that they were just below the water level in the sump, because they originally ended just above the water level which created a lot of splashing noise. These two modifications cut the noisy down massively, and the noisiest part of my setup now is the hum of the return pump.

 

[MagicJ]

This is essentially a Bean Animal overflow without the emergency #3 outlet.

And which is also called a Herbie Overflow ... you can read all about it here

I have recently set up a similar system - you need to get all the air out of the full syphon pipe. I did this by turning off the return pump and allowing the water to drain out of the overflow; fully close off the ball valve for the full syphon pipe; turn on the return pump; the full syphon pipe will fill with water and (hopefully) expel all of the air - all the water will be going down the second pipe at this stage; gradually open the valve on the full syphon until you only have a trickle going down the second pipe. I played around with mine for a few hours until I was satisfied that it was set up correctly.

As for your water, I would tend to agree with @Ben Broadfoot. Have you measured the phosphate levels in your tapwater?

 

[gigglypig]

Hi there,
Wow great insight guys.THANKS! Will be making some adjustments

1. Overflow issue. I shall continue to adjust the ball valve til I can get the #2 to be a slight trickle.
2. The noisy overflow. Unfortunately Cade pipes are from china standards and does not fit the AUS PVC standards. I did however find a spare flexible pipe that I was able to attach. Lowering the drain to reduce the slushing noise. Sooo much better. Atleast now I dont feel like I belong in the icecream factory.
I plumbed my old tank this way too and it has been peace and quiet since day 1.
The right angle bend is indeed a major flaw. minus 1 for cade. I will try pipe insulators to reduce the noise.
3. Tap water. Funny that cause the LFS said and I quote. 'just use tap water, its fine just add some prime then the salt'. So i did just that. I checked the phosphate levels and they are 0. Phew.
But I will be doing a 50 percent water change before adding livestock.
4. RODI unit. I just installed one yesterday attached to the washing machine outlet. I did make a reservoir bind the tank ~40L that I will top up when almost empty.

Will be posting another update today , progressing along. Getting some more Live rock today. YAY
I put a piece in yesterday to kick start the mini cycle. Ammonia creeped slightly, once it is all cycled and zeroes. I will start the transfer.
I have also made a rail for the 2 radions. Proud of how it turned out. piad 8 dollars for the materials as opposed to $99 for the rail kit from ecotech.
Will post pics!!

 

[MagicJ]

@gigglypig what are you using to test for phosphates?

 

[IJG3145]

The non siphon should only have water running down/around the inside edges of the pipe. Most of the space in there needs to be nothing but air. Any gurgling is from too much water in that pipe and the air column being blocked, you have to maintain a continuous air column from top to bottom. Restricting that pipe by closing a tap, defeats the purpose and will mostly cause trouble..

In a herbie overflow (2 pipes out) or a bean animal overflow (3 pipes out), the siphon should be slightly lower than the other pipe/s, at least 6mm. You ever so slightly close the siphon's valve so that the water level rises until just a thin film of water runs down the second pipe. In both overflow types, the only pipe that needs a valve/tap is the siphon. Any on the other pipes are just for maintenance reasons.

Note that in a bean animal overflow, the third pipe is never used until something goes seriously wrong. It is pure backup, albeit a necessary one. Your siphon should terminate about 20mm under the sump water level. Any more and it can't purge air when the siphon starts, too much less will cause noise.

I run the second pipe into a filter sock which cuts out any noise and aids in filtering particulates out of the water column. Note in a bean animal, the emergency pipe should terminate above the sump water level so it makes as much noise as possible, that's your cue that there's something wrong.

In both styles of overflow, the water level in your weir should be constant. If you want more accurate detail, see links below from the inventors of both types, also a good video explanation from BRS.

Bean Animal overflow - invented by the owner of the Bean Animal Bar & Grill.

Herbie overflow.

 

[Sean81]

Hi there,
Wow great insight guys.THANKS! Will be making some adjustments

2. The noisy overflow. Unfortunately Cade pipes are from china standards and does not fit the AUS PVC standards. I did however find a spare flexible pipe that I was able to attach. Lowering the drain to reduce the slushing noise. Sooo much better. Atleast now I dont feel like I belong in the icecream factory.

Will post pics!!

You will find that the China pipes are the same dia as our electrical conduit and same thickness. Our use of pressure pipe is a bit of an overkill but helps me sleep at night. So if its just for the overflow I used electrical conduit to extend pipes as there is no real pressure.