Tank Journal Archive

macca_75

Member
Apr 22, 2012
2,125
844
Building the tank room
Largely ripped from my MASA TJ and condensed into a few posts....

A mate helped to build the wall after hours.

A Blank Canvas (3/12/11) - note the mark on the floor from where the tank had been for about 6 years.
View attachment awww.imagerocket.net_photos_1323207217_IMG_5444.JPG

(7/12/11) - Small update - the wall is started
View attachment awww.imagerocket.net_photos_1323286624_IMG_5449.JPG

Pics from 13/12/11
Front all plastered up.
View attachment awww.imagerocket.net_photos_1324122146_IMG_5470.JPG

And the Stand is started (from the left, then the right)
View attachment awww.imagerocket.net_photos_1324122147_IMG_5471.JPG

View attachment awww.imagerocket.net_photos_1324122147_IMG_5472.JPG

And we'll need a door in here for access
View attachment awww.imagerocket.net_photos_1324122147_IMG_5473.JPG

I've also roughed in the wiring for power and lights.

And pics from (17/12/11)

The walls have all been lined with insulation and then tile underlay on top. This will be coated with a few coats of paint.
View attachment awww.imagerocket.net_photos_1324122147_IMG_5476.JPG

And from the front (the 2 boxes are really like in built shelves). Room for the new TV in the centre (you can see the outline of where it will go if you look really, really closely). The shelves also have hidden duct to the lower white box behind the TV for connecting Wii, etc). Each shelf will have 1 x 240v outlet and 1 x CAT6 patch point. TV also has CAT5 run to it. Using the inbuilt wireless struggles when streaming full HD movies.....
View attachment awww.imagerocket.net_photos_1324122315_IMG_5478.JPG

And we have access now - a $22 special. (Also had to have a slightly different door handle so I could get one with a lock to keep the little people out). I'll also need to fix the mounting for the light switch first thing in the morning.
View attachment awww.imagerocket.net_photos_1324122315_IMG_5479.JPG

And last but not least, the base of the tank stand extends past the tank. Thought here is I can run the sump out the end if I want to allow for a large (internal) skimmer or place a large external one -for now my RO 3000 will fit nicely. has since been replaced with the Tunze 9420 - pics should come further down in aother post on another day ;)
View attachment awww.imagerocket.net_photos_1324122316_IMG_5480.JPG

This was about midnight. Forgive the colors of the photo - it's point and shoot time. Nothing better this time of morning...

Anyway - 22/12/11
View attachment awww.imagerocket.net_photos_1324474131_IMG_5484.JPG

And the TV is in, working and the Wii was connected for Xmas eve - objective met with less than 12 hours to spare.

View attachment awww.imagerocket.net_photos_1324703251_IMG_5486.JPG

by 26th Jan I managed to give every bit of exposed wood inside the tank room 2 coats of paint. So it went from
View attachment awww.imagerocket.net_photos_1327528899_IMG_5529.JPG
to this (not really that exciting :-( )
View attachment awww.imagerocket.net_photos_1327528899_IMG_5534.JPG

The shelf was also up and painted.

Original plan for sumps was

1 x Refugium. Approx 560(W) x 490(D) x 500(H)
1 x DSB Approx 390 (W) x 490(D) x 400(H)
1 x Return approx 400 (W) x 490(D) x 300(H)

These will all be fed by the return from the wier. The ref will flow into the DSB, which it turn flows into the return. All return water (including from the skimmer, "backup" from the wier and DSB will return via a section in the return which will have 3 x 4" filter socks.
 
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macca_75

Member
Apr 22, 2012
2,125
844
16th Oct 2012

Last night my Sparky friend came around and this is what we came up with.



Basically the switch on the left needs to be on in order for the exhaust fan and controller to beon - anything ever goes wrong with either and I can isolate the power completly.

Then the switch next the the controller - off = Auto (the controller controls the exhaust fan); on = exhaust fan always on (like an override).

For the controller

Basically it was a TH20 Hunidty/Tempature controller from ebay. Cost about <$50 from memory.

You can set the Temp (Alarm 1) and Humidty (alarm 2) seperately. Each "alarm" state closes a seperate relay.

I am only using the humidity, still trying to find the spot I want.

I have started and when it hits 65% RH, active the fan until it drops by 5% to 60%.

I let it run like this for most of the day and then went in and "checked" how the room felt - a little to siticky for my liking. I have pulled it back to 55% as an on point down to 50% - will check it out tomorrow after another full day.

You can program it to either active the relay and drive the value "Up" or "Down" in increments of 0.1% for a difference of x

For example when the pic was taken, I have set Alarm 2 (AL2 in the above - not active) to switch on at 60% for 5.0 difference. Works great.
 

macca_75

Member
Apr 22, 2012
2,125
844
17th Nov 2012

And true to his word here it is.

Plaster work has been repaired, but needs to be sanded, painted, etc. Then we just screw the tap on and attach the RO unit.



Also figured out how we are going to plumb and connect the drain, but thats a job for another day.

Should have the controller for the Shego wired soon so I can get the heater out of the tank and drop the temp a little and have less fluctuation.