Sump Update Time
Well, the time is here to put in my new sump and some of the gear I have been gathering for a while now.
The pressure is on as I want to get this in and working in the next couple of weeks.
Sump Design:
Trying to keep it as simple as I could here. The sump is lifted off the ground (about 400mm). This will allow me to easily syphon the crud that will eventually accumulate. I’ve tried to make the design as large (volume wise) as I could whilst keeping it functional. The basic flow of water is into the sump via 2 x 40mm bulk heads (one is tuned with a valve, the other is the “emergency” overflow). From here the water is pushed up and over (through) 2 x filter socks, under the bottom and into the skimmer section, and through to the return section.
I’ve tried to make the skimmer section as small as possible whilst still allowing me to add a second pump to the skimmer body should I wish to upgrade in the future.
The end section is just a fraction under 20L of RO storage. This will only be used to mix up supplements and ensures I have enough RO on hand (I usually mix up 2 x 9L batches and the smaller Mg never seems to run out at the same time).
Both the RO section and the sump return chamber have an outlet which is directly hooked up through 25mm plumbing to a drain. If I leave the RO turned on I just waste a little water and it goes down the drain, if my Litermeter stays turned on the excess is pumped down the drain. If the ATO jams on once again no flood, it just goes down the drain. The only issue with the last 2 “failures” is the difference in salinity – something I plan the monitor and alert if there is a swing over a short time period.
Other equipment:
Litermeter
Will be used for 2 functions. First and most important is the auto water changes. I am pretty lazy when it comes to water changes so this will help get my tank back on track where I’d like it to be. All I need to do is keep the 2 x 1000L tanks full enough of NSW. The second function is to use the third channel and have it pump skimmate out every day (or multiple times a day). This will mean although the neck will dirty I can leave the skimmer for long periods of time (holidays, camping trips, etc) without worrying about it over flowing. The waste lines (Skimmate and water change) from the litermeter pumps will be run into the “drain” line of the return section.
Tunze 8555
I plan to move the RO filter into the tank room (I already have running water in there). The 8555 will be setup to keep the RO reservoir full. The 3155 ATO will keep top off in check. Sounds easy enough I’ll also put a “Y” in the RO line and run the second (with a tap inline) so fill the end section of the sump I mentioned earlier. If either the 8555 detects a low condition or the tap is open the RO unit will start making water. The waste line from the RO will be run into the “drain” of the return section of the sump.
Logitech C510’s
I also plan to setup a few webcams so I can remotely get a visual on the equipment and make sure all is well. This particular model is chosen because they work great for streaming with my Raspberry Pi I already have setup. I’ll just stream each on a different port. I may even find 1 minute snapshots are enough – time will tell.
The plan:
This is the tricky part and what has been making me put it off so long. My thinking is it would take me about 3-4 hours to drain the 2 current sumps, remove the plumbing and remove all the sumps. I then need to lightly sand and repaint 1 wall where some saltwater spilt (as the paint has bubbled). Then give it the rest of the day to dry. Next day move the new sump and stand in and begin plumbing. Murphy’s law says it will take 2 full days just to get the old sumps out and new ones in. 4 days in and it's still not plumbed (although in those 4 days I've also had to work, family life, etc)
So on with the pics.
First up a couple showing just how much crap I have accumulated over the years. Once you spread it out on the floor it shows how much you junk you have - only 1/2 of this will be going back in ;-)
Then a couple of the sumps being replaced.
I've had to take over the laundry as I vinegar bath and wash almost everything down.
Like a blank canvas (it's all been cleaned and repainted since this photo)
One of the walls had a few spots where salt/water had splashed onto it. I have sanded and repainted the wall as well
Here are the 2 old sumps out. There no going back as 1 of them cracked (either when I was undoing the plumbing or was like that but didn't leak - I will never know).
Gives you an idea of how tight the new sump was to get in place (we had to remove the magnets holding on pumps, frag racks, veggie clip, etc to give us an extra 5-10mm).
New sump in and some of the plumbing starting to take shape. it was a tight fight - I think another 2mm of width and it would not have gone. Likewise another 10mm in length and it wouldn't fit.
Hoping to get the DT -> Sump plumbing and sump to return pump plumbing finished today so I can at least get it functional tonight/tomorrow at the latest.
The pressure is on as I want to get this in and working in the next couple of weeks.
Sump Design:
Trying to keep it as simple as I could here. The sump is lifted off the ground (about 400mm). This will allow me to easily syphon the crud that will eventually accumulate. I’ve tried to make the design as large (volume wise) as I could whilst keeping it functional. The basic flow of water is into the sump via 2 x 40mm bulk heads (one is tuned with a valve, the other is the “emergency” overflow). From here the water is pushed up and over (through) 2 x filter socks, under the bottom and into the skimmer section, and through to the return section.
I’ve tried to make the skimmer section as small as possible whilst still allowing me to add a second pump to the skimmer body should I wish to upgrade in the future.
The end section is just a fraction under 20L of RO storage. This will only be used to mix up supplements and ensures I have enough RO on hand (I usually mix up 2 x 9L batches and the smaller Mg never seems to run out at the same time).
Both the RO section and the sump return chamber have an outlet which is directly hooked up through 25mm plumbing to a drain. If I leave the RO turned on I just waste a little water and it goes down the drain, if my Litermeter stays turned on the excess is pumped down the drain. If the ATO jams on once again no flood, it just goes down the drain. The only issue with the last 2 “failures” is the difference in salinity – something I plan the monitor and alert if there is a swing over a short time period.
Other equipment:
Litermeter
Will be used for 2 functions. First and most important is the auto water changes. I am pretty lazy when it comes to water changes so this will help get my tank back on track where I’d like it to be. All I need to do is keep the 2 x 1000L tanks full enough of NSW. The second function is to use the third channel and have it pump skimmate out every day (or multiple times a day). This will mean although the neck will dirty I can leave the skimmer for long periods of time (holidays, camping trips, etc) without worrying about it over flowing. The waste lines (Skimmate and water change) from the litermeter pumps will be run into the “drain” line of the return section.
Tunze 8555
I plan to move the RO filter into the tank room (I already have running water in there). The 8555 will be setup to keep the RO reservoir full. The 3155 ATO will keep top off in check. Sounds easy enough I’ll also put a “Y” in the RO line and run the second (with a tap inline) so fill the end section of the sump I mentioned earlier. If either the 8555 detects a low condition or the tap is open the RO unit will start making water. The waste line from the RO will be run into the “drain” of the return section of the sump.
Logitech C510’s
I also plan to setup a few webcams so I can remotely get a visual on the equipment and make sure all is well. This particular model is chosen because they work great for streaming with my Raspberry Pi I already have setup. I’ll just stream each on a different port. I may even find 1 minute snapshots are enough – time will tell.
The plan:
This is the tricky part and what has been making me put it off so long. My thinking is it would take me about 3-4 hours to drain the 2 current sumps, remove the plumbing and remove all the sumps. I then need to lightly sand and repaint 1 wall where some saltwater spilt (as the paint has bubbled). Then give it the rest of the day to dry. Next day move the new sump and stand in and begin plumbing. Murphy’s law says it will take 2 full days just to get the old sumps out and new ones in. 4 days in and it's still not plumbed (although in those 4 days I've also had to work, family life, etc)
So on with the pics.
First up a couple showing just how much crap I have accumulated over the years. Once you spread it out on the floor it shows how much you junk you have - only 1/2 of this will be going back in ;-)
Then a couple of the sumps being replaced.
I've had to take over the laundry as I vinegar bath and wash almost everything down.
Like a blank canvas (it's all been cleaned and repainted since this photo)
One of the walls had a few spots where salt/water had splashed onto it. I have sanded and repainted the wall as well
Here are the 2 old sumps out. There no going back as 1 of them cracked (either when I was undoing the plumbing or was like that but didn't leak - I will never know).
Gives you an idea of how tight the new sump was to get in place (we had to remove the magnets holding on pumps, frag racks, veggie clip, etc to give us an extra 5-10mm).
New sump in and some of the plumbing starting to take shape. it was a tight fight - I think another 2mm of width and it would not have gone. Likewise another 10mm in length and it wouldn't fit.
Hoping to get the DT -> Sump plumbing and sump to return pump plumbing finished today so I can at least get it functional tonight/tomorrow at the latest.
- Next step after the sump is running is setting up the litermeter to empty the skimmer cup.
- Then moving the RO unit and hooking it up to the reservoir.
- At this stage I can pretty much leave the tank unattended for weeks….
- Then I can hook up the litermeter for auto water changes, move some of my probes around, etc.
