Reef Discussion

[Agent M]

Hi guys,

I'm wanting to know all of the tank bracing styles that are most commonly used. A simple diagram rather than a description would be awesome as I'm a visual person. I was hoping that I could find a guide of some sort on Google images that would show all the different types however I couldn't find one.

I'm trying to get an idea of what kind of bracing I should ask for when I get my tank built. Apart from the main reason that braces exist - there are other things it comes in handy for - such as mounting light brackets and canopies, a place to rest tank screens on to prevent fish jumping, HOB (hang on back) equipment. So which is the most versatile one? I don't think I've ever had a tank that hasn't at some stage gotten in my way bracing-wise and I'd like to see what my options are.

 

[mscott]

One day I'd love to get a single piece laser cut euro bracing, with the back corners having cut outs for cords etc.

 

[Schnecke]

How large a tank are you going? That will help with what people recommend, as I believe not all bracing can be used for all tanks etc (eg. when my brother got his tank built, euro bracing was not an option for him.

 

[Savage Henry]

I think that little projects like this make great resources for us all.


A similar discussion appears in the following link:

http://www.fishlore.com/fishforum/d...these-best-bracing-method-glass-aquarium.html

 

[Agent M]

It will be 8 feet long x 18 inches wide x 24 inches (2 feet) deep

There will be a glass divider siliconed into the tank 1.5 feet from one end.

 

[Agent M]

I think that little projects like this make great resources for us all.


A similar discussion appears in the following link:

http://www.fishlore.com/fishforum/d...these-best-bracing-method-glass-aquarium.html

I agree Henry, I'm interested in seeing all of the styles of bracing there are

 

[MagicJ]

Taken from http://www.aquariumillusions.com/aquariums/custom-aquariums/

Cleats and Bracing
Bracing is necessary 99% of the time for the integral strength of your aquarium. For independent return lines that are up and out of the way, we can drill holes in the braces. This is also a great way to get more flow in the tank without the use of additional internal pumps. We offer a number of bracing styles to meet your particular needs, such as:

• Standard Bracing Small tanks are braced sufficiently by the acrylic extruded top & bottom moulds. Large tanks require glass bracing for strength. Standard glass bracing is characterized by a narrow glass strip that runs around the top entire top perimeter of the tank, as well as a center glass brace the runs front to back.
• Staggered Bracing This bracing style is beneficial when trying to optimize light penetration from your lighting. The bracing & metal halide bulbs are off set from each other. For example: a 6’ tank will have the narrow perimeter bracing as well as 2 or 3 ‘front to back’ braces.
• Euro Bracing Euro bracing is an approx. 3” wide strip of glass that runs all around the perimeter of the tank. It gives you complete & free access to the inside of your tank without any cross braces. This is also a favored option for those optimizing on the light penetration into their tank. This bracing can also be polished for a very refined look. In very large tank applications, euro bracing is tempered.
• BracelessDepending on the tank size and configuration, we can construct tanks with no bracing at all. These tanks will be made with thicker glass and possibly tempered depending on the situation.

 

[Savage Henry]

It will be 8 feet long x 18 inches wide x 24 inches (2 feet) deep

There will be a glass divider siliconed into the tank 1.5 feet from one end.

Sounds great, but I would recommend, if possible going wider than 18inches for aquascaping purposes. It is so much better and easier to place large rocks! It also gives a more pleasing depth of field.

 

[Schnecke]

I tend to agree, deeper instead of higher would be my recommendation also :-)

 

[Agent M]

@Savage Henry @Schnecke I agree with you regarding the depth, I've had a 14 inch wide tank up until now and aquascaping was always a pain.

The new tank dimensions are the exact dimensions of the cabinet it will be sitting on so unfortunately I can't go wider.

NO live rock in this tank :rofl ........ :eek

So where are my diagrams people?? I have some HOB equipment I may or may not like to use occasionally for little projects - I don't want to list them here as the point is not to make my bracing tailored to particular items but make it flexible in its use.

 

[Schnecke]

I found this, I think this is probably one of the nicest braces I've seen and I definitely wouldn't be disappointed if this was my brace - but this particular one, the owner says that it cost him $250.

And then the attached photo, is a 4 piece brace that's quite slimline - which looks sexy as well!

 

[Agent M]

Ooh love the second one! Very nice :)

 

[Andrew Tan]

Billy is building my new tank now and I have asked for a standard Euro Brace, with the back corners cut out so I can fit the Tunze Powerhead cables through them.

I currently have a rimless tank and it looks great but I had to glue some tabs on the edges so I can rest a flyscreen cover on it.

I was tempted by the one piece eurobrace, but its expensive and there is a tank journal on RTAW where the one piece eurobrace cracked in the corner :eek

 

[Agent M]

I want rimless but I'm worried it may be more expensive, is the risk of a tank crack higher?? , I need somewhere to put my light stand as I will be putting it on the bracing of the tank - anyone know about these things?

 

[RCanik]

Euro bracing is my favourite type...the thickness of the actual brace I think is dependent on the overall size of the aquarium. But I think with something the size you're looking at it's either not really possible or off the walls expensive.

Are you getting the tank built custom? You can always look at a little thicker glass and might be able to get away with minimal bracing then. But I'd venture a guess and say it'll still be necessary with the 2 foot height and the length. My 6 foot has relatively minimal bracing considering the size. And really, I don't notice it as much as I used to. It's got a small trim of glass that runs around the entire tank and then two pieces a few inches wide that run front to back. With care given to the light unit/spread as well as any corals you're looking for the variance in PAR readings really isn't too bad. It's not obvious shadows either really.

The no live rock interests me....explain!

 

[Agent M]

The no live rock interests me....explain!

I've used live rock for 8 years and I find that it is the source of a large part of the detritus in the aquarium, that's my main issue with it. There is a draw down effect underneath it that means that the detritus accumulates the most between and underneath the rocks - so its not easily accessible to remove.

It can impede flow and I've spent way too many hours trying to tweak the direction of my powerheads to get it right.
If it dies off it can be catastrophic.
It absorbs phosphate (and I think nitrate?) and can release it into the water.
It can make it impossible to catch a fish out of the tank when you need to.
It's heavy.

It provides a surface area for algae to grow on - so when you get an algae problem that can only be addressed by manual removal - such as Valonia or Bubble algae, the potential scale of the problem is according to how much live rock you have.

I think that's everything I don't like about it!

The practical reasons to use live rock are:
- biofiltration
- habitat for animals

Since there are man-made alternatives for both those aspects I'm going to be using some of those to compensate for the lack of live rock - such as Marine Pure blocks, a proven nitrifying bacteria product and fish breeding caves I can grow zoas, GSP and morphs over to disguise them. No live rock in the display means there is more space for my larger growing soft corals to occupy. Cleaning the tank should be easier. All sounds good to me :)