Tank Journal Archive

[dimitri]

to try and get a more accurate picture of what tests are best/ i didn't trust some test kits, so I've tripled up on a few.

some critical stats

temp 25.3deg

ammonia, nitrate, nitrite : Zero

SG: 1.23

Salifert PO4 : 1 (this is a problem, even with the ATS making good green algae & a lot of the Algae from the rock and back wall disappearing or turning into Coraline Algae it's still very high) - any tips on what to do here?

Calcium: API = 450
Calcium: Hanna Test = 472 first reading, 542?? wtf second reading
Don't have a Salifert yet

ALK
dKH: API = 9
dKH: Hanna = 6.66 after conversion (119ppm/17.86)
dKH: Salifert = 6.8 + or - 0.2

this should be up around 7? could this be a cause of bleaching on my SPS thats been growing on the LR I got originally?

PH: API 8.2
PH: Salifert 7.7
PH: Seneye 6.01?? there is an error here so disregard.

Not sure why salifert was giving me such a weak reading, PH should be stable now due to the ATS being on during the night, should get minimal swings, this was the case up until about 2 weeks ago, the seneye was giving very stable readings until i forgot to change the slide, now it's giving me this stupid reading.


one of my torch corals has stopped opening as much, can see in picture 4

in picture three you can see some white at the base of the pink SPS

picture two you can see the snail starting to lose the algae on it

Anemone's are struggling

everything else seems to be going well, goni's and hammers opening up fully/don't seem to be effected.
Candy's and plates doing AOK.


I'd say the torch and anenome are struggling with the phosphate being so high, guess I need to run a GFO and ditch the ATS, although I was hoping to be a bit more 'natural' but it can't seem to keep up

I've had trouble keeping my SG swings in check, due to evaporation, 1.22 to 1.29 and back down again on a few occasions over a 3-4 day period, even with the room being cool, meaning I had to dump more fresh water in because the ATO wasn't enough. - this could also be a problem.


also what is the stringy stuff around the finger/leather coral

 

[dimitri]

Seneye decided to work this morning, PH 8.08

that torch coral seems to be doomed though

 

[Agent M]

I'd say those salinity swings would be making the corals and anemones unhappy for sure. Remedy that first before considering other reasons.

Once your test kits have run out, switch to NYOS brand (I get mine from Techden.com.au). I think you'll be a lot happier.

Don't ditch the algae scrubber as it will be contributing to the zero nitrate reading you are getting. It will be dealing with phosphate also, its just not dealing with all of it. Most tanks require a combination of methods to deal with nitrate and phosphate levels. I personally use macroalgae, skimmer and Phosphate RX along with water changes.

I decided I didn't think the macro was making much of a difference one time and removed 1/3 of it. My nitrates doubled in a week. If you test whenever you harvest algae etc you will get to know these things specific to your tank, so you are sure that the filtration methods you are using are pulling their weight.

 

[potatocouch]

@dimitri what is pictured in 1652?

 

[dimitri]

@dimitri what is pictured in 1652?

3rd from the top - red spider sponge

http://aquarium-source.com/coral-care-specific.html


mine is doing ok besides the algae, I don't have my light up very high, LFS didn't tell me it was that hard to keep... that little article though.. eek

mine catches and eats flake in its tentacles..

 

[dimitri]

I'd say those salinity swings would be making the corals and anemones unhappy for sure. Remedy that first before considering other reasons.

Once your test kits have run out, switch to NYOS brand (I get mine from Techden.com.au). I think you'll be a lot happier.

Don't ditch the algae scrubber as it will be contributing to the zero nitrate reading you are getting. It will be dealing with phosphate also, its just not dealing with all of it. Most tanks require a combination of methods to deal with nitrate and phosphate levels. I personally use macroalgae, skimmer and Phosphate RX along with water changes.

I decided I didn't think the macro was making much of a difference one time and removed 1/3 of it. My nitrates doubled in a week. If you test whenever you harvest algae etc you will get to know these things specific to your tank, so you are sure that the filtration methods you are using are pulling their weight.

Will check them out and switch when I can, the Hanna kits are good but technical and laborious, and if you stuff a step up, start again, not ideal if you want to do a quick test, it is getting a bit annoying having so many kits though.

Current filtration is the hydrapure, Skimmer, ATS, Polyfilter, 2 of the 4 should be removing phos and they don't seem to be..

Maybe i need to a WC every few days to help the system and get the phos in a safe zone.

are the NYOS skimmers any good, I was tryign to find a Reef Oct Elite for the new tank but they look similar, and a LFS has them in stock or can get them.

 

[curly747]

How big is your tank ? My salinity does not move much at all in a short period unless i forget to put in the salt in a water change. (which has happened . I know water temp can affect an SG reading but i think the affect is fairly small.

 

[dimitri]

75l sump 275l display

no lid

 

[potatocouch]

3rd from the top - red spider sponge

http://aquarium-source.com/coral-care-specific.html

LOL expert only ..freaks me out already those NPS.

Are they commonly sold in Aus? I hardly seen them here.

 

[ezza]

Seneye decided to work this morning, PH 8.08

that torch coral seems to be doomed though

Did you soak the slide for 48hrs like they say in the instructions? If you don't, it will give the reading of 6

 

[dimitri]

LOL expert only ..freaks me out already those NPS.

Are they commonly sold in Aus? I hardly seen them here.

I have seen them two times at my LFS, I think the species is indigenous to aus and invasive elsewhere in the world, but thats just something I read a while back.

Did you soak the slide for 48hrs like they say in the instructions? If you don't, it will give the reading of 6

The first one I did, but it still went weird after a few days, this new one I didn't and it came good in 24hrs...

Clearly not a perfect science :)


Can anyone recommend a good skimmer for 500L+

I was keen on the Reef Octy Elite 200SSS with DC pump and controller but it is proving hard to get in Aus.

 

[ezza]

I have seen them two times at my LFS, I think the species is indigenous to aus and invasive elsewhere in the world, but thats just something I read a while back.





The first one I did, but it still went weird after a few days, this new one I didn't and it came good in 24hrs...

Clearly not a perfect science :)


Can anyone recommend a good skimmer for 500L+

I was keen on the Reef Octy Elite 200SSS with DC pump and controller but it is proving hard to get in Aus.

There is nothing wrong with the science. The reason hey recommend you soak the slide for two days is so you don't end up having incorrect PH readings when you replace he slide. I was telling you he answer to your question because I have been running a Seneye for the last 3 years. You seem to choose to ignore people who try to help you. You have since day 1 on this forum and that is not what this place is about.

 

[dimitri]

No, I didn't ignore you, I even said "the first one i did",

So let me try again, I soaked my last one, gave a wrong reading after initially giving a correct reading for a number of days, I didn't soak this time and within 24hrs it was giving me the correct reading, i think you misunderstood, the comment was in relation to the manufacturing process & how quick the slide 'calibrates itself', I doubt they get every batch perfect.... I even go in once every couple of weeks and clean the window thing to make sure its reading correct, but this week i vinegar bathed it & tooth brushed it.


sorry for the misunderstanding.

Anyhoobles, did a 15% WC and my hammers are now releasing white stringy stuff, is this cause for concern?

 

[Agent M]

Anyhoobles, did a 15% WC and my hammers are now releasing white stringy stuff, is this cause for concern?

I would be either doing a series of 15% water changes daily if you like to do things in increments, or doing as large a water change as you can manage. At best the white stringy stuff could just be a bit of slime from being disturbed and should resolve in less than a day, but I don't like the sound of it.

 

[dimitri]

I would be either doing a series of 15% water changes daily if you like to do things in increments, or doing as large a water change as you can manage. At best the white stringy stuff could just be a bit of slime from being disturbed and should resolve in less than a day, but I don't like the sound of it.

Well if you google corals releasing mucous you'll get a list of choices for what it is, some nothing to worry about, some potentially problematic... Can't really tell the difference from peoples posts.

I'll try do another WC tomorrow and sunday and see how it goes, and test for phos at the end of it.. thats every second day, bit uneasy about disturbing the tank every day.

I also read that coarse gravel sand can lock in more Phos then fine sands, so when we do the tank move next week before the new tank comes in I might take the chance to switch to a more fine sand.

 

[Agent M]

If the corals are sliming up that doesn't worry me so much. Its if the 'slime' is actually necrotic tissue then you have a problem. I can only go by your description and its hard to tell sometimes.

The phos is going to do more damage than the water changes. I'm a proponent of large water changes, especially when you need to reset your water parameters back to where they should be. I sort of see it like changing the whole litter box rather than pooper scooping.

The alternative is a series of water changes over a number of days. Its a pain but necessary if you don't like the idea of making changes too rapidly. Once you have your phos under control, stop the water changes and start testing every couple of days to see how quickly it rises again. That will tell you how often you need to do a water change from now on and how much water to change.

 

[dimitri]

alright well I think its safe to say that the muceas isn't necrotic, as it is coming from the mouth of the hammers, and it stopped after 24hrs, it was just odd they both did it at the same time right after a WC - all the hammers are fully open now, however my torch coral is releasing tiny balls on a string from its mouth, I think its a spawning event? see picture attached.

I'm on rations for my HQ RO water, I get the stuff delivered to work and I got enough for ATO and maybe 3 water changes over the break, the company won't start delivering again till next week friday so I have 5 x 16L tubs, thats enough for maybe 1 more large WC and top off since I have done 2 Larger WC's so far

If i try do a 10-15% WC every day or second day for the rest of the week I'll be all out by monday or tuesday.


i might just do some 5% ones to space out the tubs for the week and hopefully I don't get that much evaporation.

 

[Agent M]

Cool pic! That looks like spawning to me as well.

If water changes aren't the best solution for you to bring your phosphate down, use Phosphate RX. I love the stuff :) If my phosphate is really high, I will remove the majority of it over 24 hours, then carefully bring the rest down. I don't want to shock my macroalgae by stripping the water of all the phosphate.

Look at this video at the 3 minute mark. He talks about it.

 

[dimitri]

solid, i'll see if they have it at the LFS tomorrow.

no effects on inverts then i take it?

 

[Agent M]

solid, i'll see if they have it at the LFS tomorrow.

no effects on inverts then i take it?

I have snails, shrimp, an urchin and 2 large brittle starfish and I haven't had any issues. I have no sump so I drip it directly in line with a powerhead.