Tank Journal Archive

Ian G

Member
Sep 11, 2012
808
393
Nowhere
thats odd, They must have 2 different type of bulk head. This is the hansen I used, which has the beaded gasket and works perfect on glass

awww.hansenproducts.co.nz_products_tank_images_SFTFT.jpg




But either way, enough hi-jacking back to the TJ :p
Must do, if you look at my pics there's no rib running around it like this pic has. Actually rib aside, they have several different types of outlet, flat, corrugated, male (no nut inside), female (like your pic), black and even a flash looking white one although couldn't find them in Australia.:(

Then some of those can be obtained in two different grades being "rural" and " somethingorother grade" (can't remember). Confused the crap out of me when I was researching the best thing to use. Might have picked the wrong one.:eek

I live very near to our Murray Goulburn (Trading) and know the manager well, they are a major Hansen client.
 

Ian G

Member
Sep 11, 2012
808
393
Nowhere
PLUMBING
I am running three outlets from the weir (bean animal overflow). One is 32mm, the other two are 25mm. They are located top centre on the back of the tank. I'm also running two 25mm returns but one will be plugged for now, until I fit my water switcher later on.
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EDIT:
I went off to the hardware today (Dec 16 2012) with what money I have available before Christmas. Murphy's law - I didn't have quite enough and they didn't have everything I needed, being a sunday & being a long way from a Bunnings, I had to improvise some things but there was no way to improvise around the fact that they had no 25mm male to female elbows. Those I have to have.

So with what I could get I made a different version of a "Durso" overflow using Australian standard poly irrigation parts, some parts used in the parts list for the American "Durso" & "Bean Animal" overflows, just aren't available in metric sizes or are incredibly hard to get.

So I introduce you to the "Aussie Overflow" system, a modified bean animal design. One advantage with this design is it uses only off the shelf parts, no cutting, no solvents, no glues and no modifications are required except for drilling one single 1/4" hole in a plastic plug. All parts are available from your Bunnings, major hardware, farm supply or irrigation supplies shop.

The Aussie Overflow consists of three outlets from the weir in the same configuration as a bean animal. Each outlet looks like this:
P9290003.JPG

32mm version of the overflow shown.

The main siphon (centre) also needs a 25mm poly female/female (internal thread each end) ball valve. This is also another standard part. Personally I've put a tap on each for maintenance purposes but it's not really necessary other than on the full siphon.

The parts list for each 25mm overflow unit is:

1 x 25mm tank outlet fitting.
1 x 25mm 3 way female threaded tee (all branches are threaded internally).
1 x 25mm end plug (male).
1 x 25mm x 150mm poly pipe threaded each end (this is a std pipe part).
1 x 25mm threaded ball valve.
Teflon tape / plumbers tape.

Pictures of all parts are shown at end of this post for reference purposes. The most common brand & readily available are "Hansen" brand fittings. Elsewhere in this thread I have given hole saw sizes for Hansen tank outlets.

If your store sells them by imperial size, 25mm is the same as 1 inch pipe.
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HOW TO
BELOW: Wrap all external threads with teflon tape, winding on in the same direction as the thread. Usually anti clockwise when holding thread away from the ground. For some excellent plumbing tips see VaultBoy's plumbing tips.
P9290004.JPG
P9290005.JPG




BELOW: Wind tee piece onto tank outlet (top of pic). Make sure you use a spanner or multigrips to stop your tank outlet from turning while you do this, especially if you've used silicon on the outlet gaskets. Then tighten plug into top of tee.

Then wind your pipe into bottom of tee and your ball valve (tap), if using one, onto bottom of pipe. Hand tighten all then a half turn extra.
P9290006.JPG


Each one should look something like this when finished.
P9290007.JPG


I've used a 32mm tank outlet, tee & plug on my main siphon then a 32mm-25mm reducing bush to fit the pipe into. I've done this as I wanted to be absolutely sure this would purge any air from the siphon & it does. With a normal 25mm setup you won't have the extra "nut" on the bottom of the tee piece.
I
P9290008.JPG


After the ball valve I've elected to go with soft plumbing for now. mainly to reduce cost. I may fit hard plumbing when funds are available, I might not.

Here I'm fitting a 25mm to hose barb fitting into low pressure rated tubing. There is no real pressure as the outflows are gravity fed. I've used standard steel hose clamps here as they easier to find, cheaper & are not in contact with salt water, these aren't even inside the cabinet. Anything near salt water will use plastic clamps.
P9290009.JPG
P9290012.JPG



More to come........................

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Parts list with pictures:

RN_Tank_Outlet_Hanson.jpg 25mm tank outlet fitting. Poly_Pipe_Tee_TEE125.jpg25mm 3 way female threaded tee.
hansen plug.jpg25mm end plug. polypipe.jpg25mm x 150mm threaded poly pipe / riser

lilac-metric-ball-valve.jpg 25mm threaded ball valve. teflon_tape.jpgTeflon tape.
 

GhostRPH

Member
Sep 19, 2012
441
170
Trimming off the excess threads is nothing major, as long as the cut is roughly square the threads will engage and seal with a little bit of thread tape to assist the seal... Poly is very forgiving, can be done up and un-done and then re-done up again and again, just clean the thread tape out and apply new each time..

Bulkheads should seal with hand tight pressure + 1/2 turn.... Never had issues with them when working in the trade waste/rain tank industry for 4 years, and if they do develop a tiny leak just crank it tighter another 1/3 - 1/3 turn....
 

VaultBoy

Member
Jul 10, 2011
2,279
673
Gawler, S.A.
Put a nut on the thread before you cut it and then remove the nut after it should take any "burrs" off with it and open up the end of the thread!

As for the silicone on the outside of the tank. You have only sealed the back nut to the vinyl ;) inside the tank you seal the fitting to the glass the outside nut is just to hold it in place...
 

Ian G

Member
Sep 11, 2012
808
393
Nowhere
Put a nut on the thread before you cut it and then remove the nut after it should take any "burrs" off with it and open up the end of the thread!

As for the silicone on the outside of the tank. You have only sealed the back nut to the vinyl ;) inside the tank you seal the fitting to the glass the outside nut is just to hold it in place...
Great idea. I used to use this cheat back in my fitter days but would load a die instead of a nut. Thanks for the tip though as despite my experience, I'd forgotten that trick.
 

VaultBoy

Member
Jul 10, 2011
2,279
673
Gawler, S.A.
I am a plumber not a fitter... I dont use fancy stuff like dies pffft...

Just whatever is handy! A hacksaw blade works well for cleaning up BSP or NPT threads. They are just the right thickness to clean the burrs out or open the thread out if you cross thread it :rolleyes
 

Ian G

Member
Sep 11, 2012
808
393
Nowhere
Well it was too good to be true. DISASTER HAS STRUCK AGAIN, third time this tank had died for one reason or another.:cry

I was checking out the tank last night after we put it upright again and all looked fine. Then I've just brought the hose in to test fill it and there's a massive crack on the front glass, from the base to almost half way up. Maybe I should give up.:stop

Either way I'm not going to have money to do anything about it until late January so I'll think about my options. I've no idea what it would cost or where I could take it at this stage.

Photo when I'm less depressed.
 

VaultBoy

Member
Jul 10, 2011
2,279
673
Gawler, S.A.
:rage That sucks mate!

Is it possible to just replace teh front pane of glass? It would make a great DIY write up if you go down that path.
 

Ian G

Member
Sep 11, 2012
808
393
Nowhere
Damn ... was it resting on the front I assume while you drilled?
Yes on double foam and it looked ok when we flipped it but I obviously stressed it somehow.

I don't know if this had anything to do with it, but with the tank off I noticed that a piece of the rear cladding is cut too long and sticking up. Who knows, maybe this will prevent a major collapse of a full tank later. I will of course plane it down. Also the DT front did have a couple of scratches so now I get a virgin front.

Always look on the bright side of life............Monty Python, The Life of Brian.
 

Synodontis

Member
Aug 1, 2011
1,979
968
Melton, Victoria
That would have to make you feel like crap after such a great job drilling & setting it all up. :mad:

Glad you found someone to repair it & at a great price to. Look forward to seeing the tank all set up ready to go :)
 

Priscacara

Member
Jun 19, 2012
2,017
794
Lara
That sucks big time mate it was going so well.

Firebird can lead the cheer squad for us but hell could you picture me with a pompom and a dress on? :eek