Tank Journal Archive
Full wet test. All good but I'll let it sit like this for 24 hours. I'll have to get some packing for under the stand to level it a bit but it's pretty close. Note: Always level the stand, not the tank.
Off to get the rest of the plumbing tomorrow, or at least as much as I've got money for :) At least once I've got all the top end plumbing in place, I can take measurements to modify my hood for the plumbing to fit.
Off to get the rest of the plumbing tomorrow, or at least as much as I've got money for :) At least once I've got all the top end plumbing in place, I can take measurements to modify my hood for the plumbing to fit.
Thanks. It's nice to know they're of some use.
If there was somewhere here on the forum I might polish them up, better pics, etc and write them up in more detail.
Note to anyone planning on drilling a tank themselves - regarding weir placement.
If I had known I would have a full height weir I probably would have drilled through the bottom of the tank, to minimise wall clearance required. Just a thought for others. In reality though, I'm happy with where they are because I'll be able to reach the taps where they are. As I have limited mobility, for me to access taps inside the cabinet I would have to lay flat on the floor & do it as best I could (I can't squat down).
I can get down on the floor and up again but I need something to support me and it's a somewhat painful process. So if anybody has restriction of movement, keep this in mind when you are planning.
Also after discussions with my mate who owns a very successful and large plumbing business, I decided Not to use a gate valve. Apparently although they are very good for controlling flow, they are not designed for it and will eventually fail. The gate tends to warp sideways unless they are kept fully open or fully closed as they are designed to be used.
Whether they would fail under home aquarium conditions of flow, pressure, etc, I don't know & nor did he but since I'm building this for the long term I decided not to risk it. Another factor was that I would have to use a pvc gate valve to avoid corrosion. PVC gate valves are hard to get & inherently weaker than their metal counterparts.
If I had known I would have a full height weir I probably would have drilled through the bottom of the tank, to minimise wall clearance required. Just a thought for others. In reality though, I'm happy with where they are because I'll be able to reach the taps where they are. As I have limited mobility, for me to access taps inside the cabinet I would have to lay flat on the floor & do it as best I could (I can't squat down).
I can get down on the floor and up again but I need something to support me and it's a somewhat painful process. So if anybody has restriction of movement, keep this in mind when you are planning.
Also after discussions with my mate who owns a very successful and large plumbing business, I decided Not to use a gate valve. Apparently although they are very good for controlling flow, they are not designed for it and will eventually fail. The gate tends to warp sideways unless they are kept fully open or fully closed as they are designed to be used.
Whether they would fail under home aquarium conditions of flow, pressure, etc, I don't know & nor did he but since I'm building this for the long term I decided not to risk it. Another factor was that I would have to use a pvc gate valve to avoid corrosion. PVC gate valves are hard to get & inherently weaker than their metal counterparts.
If I leave it uncovered, I would like to put some of that black corner trim on the front edges to hide the white silicon and make it all blend in better.
Anyone know where to buy this?
You know I hadn't considered that, talk about missing the obvious. Anyway I don't think it will be a problem as we bought one of these last week for $18. It extends out to a 60cm handle. The bit shown on the end in this pic is the cover for the razor underneath. It's a great tool for removing algae although god knows what the comb is for, maybe raking sand.
Not a bad back scratcher either....:confused:
Yeah I've been sitting here during the freshwater test and even the differing water levels will annoy me in the end. I'll stick with the plan to cover the whole thing in perspex (black).
EDIT 17/12/12
Having a few days off from the tank projects, fitting new (s/hand) steel shelving in the shed. It's been sitting there for over 2 years so I better get it done while the kids are on holidays, to help me.
EDIT 17/12/12
Having a few days off from the tank projects, fitting new (s/hand) steel shelving in the shed. It's been sitting there for over 2 years so I better get it done while the kids are on holidays, to help me.
The (american) Chaeto / Spaghetti Algae I bought arrived today, a very generous amount too. It appears to be the real deal but I would love to get he species identified for certain. I might contact Museum Victoria & see what they suggest. For now I'm keeping it in a floating breeder box within Donna's Seed Tank.
I'm definitely going with a covered weir so I can't do much until the first of the acrylic places opens on Jan 3rd. Then I'll get some black acrylic cut, silicon it over the weir and get my salt water delivered. A guy called Chris in Mornington (Vic) will supply and deliver an IBC for $120 plus regular NSW deliveries for $140 per 1000 litres. Not a bad price considering how far he has to come.
I'm not intending to get an RO/DI unit as I just cannot justify the expense nor the waste water. In the short term I'll pick up RODI from an FS (not LFS as my nearest is a 3 hour round trip) & in an emergency I can use our tap water which is pretty spot on anyway as it's treated river water.
In the meantime I've had a few bludge days, a few days playing with the kids & started putting my bommies together properly. I'll be posting about that later in the DIY Bommie part of this thread.
I also came up against a few issues with my plumbing & base rock and as always, I'll write up my sometimes silly mistakes so others can learn from my stupidity.
I'm not intending to get an RO/DI unit as I just cannot justify the expense nor the waste water. In the short term I'll pick up RODI from an FS (not LFS as my nearest is a 3 hour round trip) & in an emergency I can use our tap water which is pretty spot on anyway as it's treated river water.
In the meantime I've had a few bludge days, a few days playing with the kids & started putting my bommies together properly. I'll be posting about that later in the DIY Bommie part of this thread.
I also came up against a few issues with my plumbing & base rock and as always, I'll write up my sometimes silly mistakes so others can learn from my stupidity.
Rang perspex suppliers all over SE Melb & nobody is answering, not even those advertising as back yesterday.
SO - I'm in SE Vic, Dandenong area is the closest part of Melb to me, Frankston another possibility. Does anyone have recommendations for cut to size perspex in these areas?
Note: Bunnings do not sell perspex (except clear & smoke). Clark Rubber do not sell perspex at all despite what their website says. Nor do Mitre 10, Home Hardware, or any local glaziers & glass providers (except as very expensive kitchen splashbacks).
SO - I'm in SE Vic, Dandenong area is the closest part of Melb to me, Frankston another possibility. Does anyone have recommendations for cut to size perspex in these areas?
Note: Bunnings do not sell perspex (except clear & smoke). Clark Rubber do not sell perspex at all despite what their website says. Nor do Mitre 10, Home Hardware, or any local glaziers & glass providers (except as very expensive kitchen splashbacks).
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