Tank Journal Archive
You could do basic carbon dosing or use http://www.korallen-zucht.de/en/Salt-Water-Aquarium-Care/Problem-solving/ZEOlife.html
Hey,
I agree hat biopellets can cause this issue. Gfo will help but as soon as it you come off it you will have the same issue again.
GFo is going to starve the good bacteria from growing as it won't be able to compete with gfo. So when you come if fit your left with the same unbalanced ratio of bacteria one strong culture and one weak.
Just a suggestion but you could try using
zeovit cyno clean with zeovit coral snow.
GFO removes phosphates, these are required for bacterial growth (including cyano).
Biopellets are a carbon source, which is also required for bacterial growth (including cyano)
Nitrates are a nitrogen source, also required for bacterial growth (including cyano)
The amount used of carbon/phosphate/nitrogen differs with each bacterial strain. It is far more complex than has been suggested and it is usually better to think systemically with tanks than trying to micro-culture bacterial strains like each new fad does.
Now to actually answer OPs question.
Adding corals should not increase nitrates, the waste they produce in miniscule, unless you have a pico? What other additions such as fish etc have you added? or new feeding schemes?
Unless you are running zeo/sps style tank then nitrates below 10ppm are fine. Are your corals growing? Is your KH/Ca usage stable given the new additions? as KH/C imbalances are far more likely to be a sign of new coral additions than nitrate.
At the end of the day if your corals are healthy and growing you are better off not manipulating your system with technology unless you know exactly WHY and HOW it works and whether it fits in with your current system.
Biopellets are a carbon source, which is also required for bacterial growth (including cyano)
Nitrates are a nitrogen source, also required for bacterial growth (including cyano)
The amount used of carbon/phosphate/nitrogen differs with each bacterial strain. It is far more complex than has been suggested and it is usually better to think systemically with tanks than trying to micro-culture bacterial strains like each new fad does.
Now to actually answer OPs question.
Adding corals should not increase nitrates, the waste they produce in miniscule, unless you have a pico? What other additions such as fish etc have you added? or new feeding schemes?
Unless you are running zeo/sps style tank then nitrates below 10ppm are fine. Are your corals growing? Is your KH/Ca usage stable given the new additions? as KH/C imbalances are far more likely to be a sign of new coral additions than nitrate.
At the end of the day if your corals are healthy and growing you are better off not manipulating your system with technology unless you know exactly WHY and HOW it works and whether it fits in with your current system.
I considered biopellets and I ended up deciding to go with vodka dosing instead. With such a new tank in it's stocking phase, I would wait and see if your natural biofiltration catches up before adding something like a biopellet reactor. During stocking, keep nitrates down with regular water changes and detritus removal. Once the dust has settled then you can see if your existing filtration cuts the mustard or not.
As for cyanobacteria - I have done things 'the natural way' in my first year of reefing and I much prefer going the Chemiclean route to get rid of it now.
I did an experiment last year where I moved my 1 foot wide soft coral that is growing on 1kg of 7y.o rock into a 100L tank with no filtration, just flow and lights. Within a week, nitrates were 20ppm. So did that come from the soft coral, or the rock? There was no die off and the tank was not being fed.
As for cyanobacteria - I have done things 'the natural way' in my first year of reefing and I much prefer going the Chemiclean route to get rid of it now.
I'm not so sure of that, I once thought the same but I had a well established, understocked 180L tank with mostly soft/LPS coral and 1 very small fish eating microalgae and turbo eggs for quite some time and my nitrates were 5ppm, phos was 0.03.
I did an experiment last year where I moved my 1 foot wide soft coral that is growing on 1kg of 7y.o rock into a 100L tank with no filtration, just flow and lights. Within a week, nitrates were 20ppm. So did that come from the soft coral, or the rock? There was no die off and the tank was not being fed.
The tank is still in its early phase and stocking. Which could explain why my nitrates are around 20ppm. I only have one clown. My other parameters are good. Phosphates 0
ammonia 0
nitrite 0
calcium 450
kh 450
salinity 0.026
Perhaps taken into consideration the comments is not to run the biopellets. Which will save me from buying a packet Too.
I have considered dosing but im still trying to understand how vodka or zeovit etx will affect the system
I think i will wait until every thing settles continue water changes 1 to 2 weeks depending and watch the system mature over the next few months.
Sound good?
thankS for the comments everyone
ammonia 0
nitrite 0
calcium 450
kh 450
salinity 0.026
Perhaps taken into consideration the comments is not to run the biopellets. Which will save me from buying a packet Too.
I have considered dosing but im still trying to understand how vodka or zeovit etx will affect the system
I think i will wait until every thing settles continue water changes 1 to 2 weeks depending and watch the system mature over the next few months.
Sound good?
thankS for the comments everyone
As you are discovering you are going to need additional filtration - that much is clear. I would just wait until you are fully stocked so you have a better idea of what your needs are exactly. You don't have to do it that way though.
There are a number of filtration options, we all use a combination of this and that to get the results we want - biopellets wouldn't be my first preference though.
Do you have room for a 4" x 4" x 8" Marine Pure block in the sump?
There are a number of filtration options, we all use a combination of this and that to get the results we want - biopellets wouldn't be my first preference though.
Do you have room for a 4" x 4" x 8" Marine Pure block in the sump?
If you look on their website http://www.cermedia.com/marinepure-technical.phpv and look down the page to Usage Recommendations you will see that the Spheres and 1 inch plates provide Nitrification - which help deal with ammonia and nitrite.
But you want a larger marine pure block as it can provide Denitrification (ie. reducing nitrates). Because of its thickness, the bacteria in the centre of the block will be anaerobic and the bacteria on the outer areas of the block will be aerobic: "MarinePure's thick blocks are designed to be used in passive systems to control Nitrates (like live rock)."
1 block is rated for a 50 gallon to 100 gallon tank - so you could use half a block if you wish as long as you don't decrease the thickness of the block.
From what I've read of your Tank Journal you are looking for clean, neat solutions so this is an option that fits into that without using any electricity and will last you a number of years. If it needs a clean at any stage you can give it a swish in tank water when doing a water change.
But you want a larger marine pure block as it can provide Denitrification (ie. reducing nitrates). Because of its thickness, the bacteria in the centre of the block will be anaerobic and the bacteria on the outer areas of the block will be aerobic: "MarinePure's thick blocks are designed to be used in passive systems to control Nitrates (like live rock)."
1 block is rated for a 50 gallon to 100 gallon tank - so you could use half a block if you wish as long as you don't decrease the thickness of the block.
From what I've read of your Tank Journal you are looking for clean, neat solutions so this is an option that fits into that without using any electricity and will last you a number of years. If it needs a clean at any stage you can give it a swish in tank water when doing a water change.
The cyano clean and snow, could I use those if i am dosing the red sea foundations gear?
I have low phos .07 and little to no no and I alway, always, always have cyano. Have trIed most things and see results short term but it always comes back. Po4x4 is the only thing that I have had success with so far.
Nice thead, +1 for the marine pure block. It's anecdotal but I really think my marine pure block helps. When I was Vodka Dosing I believe it really helped with it. Not so much with Zeo, nitrates have gone up to 4-5 at the moment. When I was Vodka dosing they were un-detectable. Corals didn't like it so much they have never been happier with the higher nitrates. Best part is no more Cyano.
@Aspidites There's also a new Zeo A-Balance that is supposed to be good at balancing LNS systems for Cyano prevention. Could help. I also have some articles that may help you, I suffered from the same issues and there is some good articles around. I'll try and find them.
@Aspidites There's also a new Zeo A-Balance that is supposed to be good at balancing LNS systems for Cyano prevention. Could help. I also have some articles that may help you, I suffered from the same issues and there is some good articles around. I'll try and find them.
Very informative agent M About the marine pure blocm. I think I will give the marine pure a go. Seems to have good reviews thus far Versus biopellets. Im away at the moment at forster so when i get home hopefully the tank hasnt changed.
I do believe feeding my inverts the microplankton from ocean nutrition every 4 to 5 days is contributing to the nitrates being high which i will increase this to a week apart see if it makes a difference. On the other hand the corals seem much happy to have the nitrates higher and my single sps frag is tolerating. Weird...
I have yet to have an issue witb cyno or hair algae due to low levels of phosphates. Could change since the tank is young.
I don't want to get into the complications of dosing the zeo or vodka if the results will be the samr after coming off the product. If the solution is long term Im all for it!
Awesome thread.
I do believe feeding my inverts the microplankton from ocean nutrition every 4 to 5 days is contributing to the nitrates being high which i will increase this to a week apart see if it makes a difference. On the other hand the corals seem much happy to have the nitrates higher and my single sps frag is tolerating. Weird...
I have yet to have an issue witb cyno or hair algae due to low levels of phosphates. Could change since the tank is young.
I don't want to get into the complications of dosing the zeo or vodka if the results will be the samr after coming off the product. If the solution is long term Im all for it!
Awesome thread.
It may not solve everything, but its a very good step. There are users of the blocks on RC who have to feed more heavily because their setup is too efficient at removing nitrates, however I find just as many reports of people who have the blocks in their system having nutrient related problems as well.
If you can fit a whole block in your sump I would go that way. If you have to cut it down to half maybe see if you can go halvies with another nano tank keeper. Best price I have seen for Marine Pure is here: http://www.thetechden.com.au/MarinePure_Big_Block_p/900111.htm
Have never purchased from Tech Den so can't comment there.
I notice they also have Marine Pure made to look like a natural rock that has some thickness to it as well.
http://www.thetechden.com.au/CerMedia_MarinePure_Small_Rock_p/903001.htm
http://www.thetechden.com.au/CerMedia_MarinePure_Medium_Rock_p/903002.htm
If you can fit a whole block in your sump I would go that way. If you have to cut it down to half maybe see if you can go halvies with another nano tank keeper. Best price I have seen for Marine Pure is here: http://www.thetechden.com.au/MarinePure_Big_Block_p/900111.htm
Have never purchased from Tech Den so can't comment there.
I notice they also have Marine Pure made to look like a natural rock that has some thickness to it as well.
http://www.thetechden.com.au/CerMedia_MarinePure_Small_Rock_p/903001.htm
http://www.thetechden.com.au/CerMedia_MarinePure_Medium_Rock_p/903002.htm
If you don't want to give the Marine Pure time to colonise naturally with bacteria, there is this product which I've recently started using:
http://www.vitamingrocer.com.au/One-Only-Live-Nitrifying-Bacteria-for-Saltwater-p/306105.htm
Products take a few weeks to ship from the US but I've made a few orders with Vitamin Grocer and they've been reliable so far. And I like this product a lot too.
This is well worth watching until the end:
http://www.vitamingrocer.com.au/One-Only-Live-Nitrifying-Bacteria-for-Saltwater-p/306105.htm
Products take a few weeks to ship from the US but I've made a few orders with Vitamin Grocer and they've been reliable so far. And I like this product a lot too.
This is well worth watching until the end:
Yes a picture speaks a thousand words and when you google 'zeovit reef tank' the results are undeniable.
@slin1977 @Wrangy @Buddy
People can call them a fad @rnscross …'an intense and widely shared enthusiasm for something, especially one that is short-lived; a craze'.
However zeovit users are one of the most long term and loyal buyers of any reefing brand.
The link is here http://www.zeovit.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10354
This is the FAQ page which explains a lot.
Zeolites
Think of these as porous man made rocks that absorb something, specifically reef toxins (I would say nitrate and phosphate but nobody knows for sure if these actually remove them or help bind them so your skimmer can easily remove them). Zeovit uses a mixture of different zeolites that have been found to best reduce toxins in a saltwater system. Exactly how they work has been much debated; from a theory of bacterial colonizing to locking-up or removing ammonia, to a transformation process of nutrients to a different ion. Sorry, I have no idea of how it works just that it does.
My tank :)
I think bio pellets works best on your bigger display systems , way more economical .
Combined with Zeo products ie blue bottles it's really effective.
Two huge displays that I've seen first hand are reef secrets and eastwood aquatics. They are bio pellets high bio load fish and packed with coral.
IMO the smaller displays say up to four by two can handle Zeo stones , six foot plus you going to need deep pockets to change stones. Might be a weak argument ... Just my two cents
Combined with Zeo products ie blue bottles it's really effective.
Two huge displays that I've seen first hand are reef secrets and eastwood aquatics. They are bio pellets high bio load fish and packed with coral.
IMO the smaller displays say up to four by two can handle Zeo stones , six foot plus you going to need deep pockets to change stones. Might be a weak argument ... Just my two cents
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