Reef Discussion

slin1977

Member
Jul 13, 2011
3,476
1,661
Sydney
isn't is incredible how much time trips and money you can blow on plumbing. I have so many spare fittings its not funny. I'm hoping to at least salvage my unions and all the screw fitting I can from my current pvc setup.
Last time I returned $80 bits of pieces plumbing for credit and I still have a few (enough) to redo my sump at anytime I feel the urge to.
I am planning V.3 in the sump when that itch needs to be scratched - since we can't always spend our time watching our corals grow right?
 

ReeferRob

Solidarité
Oct 22, 2014
2,661
931
Bel Air
I'll trade you mate, I buy plumbing parts by the case. I've been slowly adding to the shop, 9 tanks at a time in a bank on a central sump. So you have at a minimum 9 valves, 27 elbows, 100mm of tubing and 1.5m of pipe per tank.
 
E

ezza

Guest
I went back to Masters to peek at pipes but ended up buying myself a rangehood glue kit and a weather station for my husband... I'm going to have a look at the existing pipes when I do a water change to see what the options are. In the meantime... does anyone want to help me install a pipe into my roof?! :D:p:rofl
 

192k

Member
Nov 17, 2011
915
336
Northside Brisbane, 4017
acdn.shopify.com_s_files_1_0854_0866_products_8a5e75d62086938e2996345ee94f7e66ca024fd419688442.jpeg

Is the pump above the one you are using?

I am not sure if this will help, but there is a certain way I attach soft flexible tubing to any barbed connections.

Step 1. Boil the kettle and place hot water in a mug 1/4 full.

Step 2. Place the end of the soft hose into the boiling hot water for 10 seconds.

Step 3. Carefully slide the heated tube over the barbed fitting and let it cool. The heat softens the tube and you will find it slides very easily over the barbs and to the end of the fitting.

Be careful, the tube will be warm/hot. Grab the hose behind from where you heated it.

When the tube cools it contracts slightly and will form a very secure seal over the barb.

Then you could add a larger nylon or plastic hose clamp to secure the line.

I do not know enough about the blue drain pipe in your setup, so cannot comment on that. If it is working for you, I wouldn't change it.

For a failsafe on smaller tanks, I have seen float switches placed in the display/overflow that are connected to a switched plug that immedialtely cuts power to the return. When the level rises too much, the return is cut.

Adding valves to return pumps and restricting them can cause issues with backpressure, overheating and eventually failure, so I would not recommend it.

Rigid plumbing would be counterproductive in your situation because you would need more adaptors that what it is worth. There is nothing wrong with soft tubing at all.

I hope some of this info has helped :)
 

MagicJ

Moderator
Jul 11, 2011
9,650
3,761
Hobart, Tasmania
Without wishing to detract from the excellent information provided above ...

Step 2 - it will make Step 3 easier if you only dip enough of the hose into the hot water to cover the barb/fitting - to much and it can be difficult to push it onto the barb.
 

ReeferRob

Solidarité
Oct 22, 2014
2,661
931
Bel Air
Without wishing to detract from the excellent information provided above ...

Step 2 - it will make Step 3 easier if you only dip enough of the hose into the hot water to cover the barb/fitting - to much and it can be difficult to push it onto the barb.
Yep, you only want what you're going to try to shove on there squishy. You ought to be here and try to fit metric pipes and SAE tubes together, maddening!!!