Reef Discussion

[MagicJ]

Any reason why you want to mount the drivers above the tank?? It makes it easier if you have them near your controller then you can minimise the number of wires going to the LED's.

I used 4 core alarm cable (primarily because I got it for free:)) but it means I only need 3 cables going to the lights - I am also running 5 drivers so 10 wires for the lights and 2 spare, although I plan to put a couple of temp sensors on the lights.

Something like this http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=WB1590&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=992#1

They also have a 6 core cable http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=WB1596&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=992#1

If you are using 3 channels, and have the drivers remote from the LED's then you would only need one of these cables.

I am putting a joiner at the top like this http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PP2026&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=990#1 so I can easily unplug the LED's if required. These come in a number of different sizes to meet your needs.

Cheers

 

[DavidS]

Actually, I don't want the drivers above the tank, which is why I'm looking for a method of keeping the cable mass as low as possible. :)

 

[DavidS]

What I want to put above the tank is the Typhon - even then, I'm still looking at 4 pairs just to drive that.

 

[MagicJ]

Why the Typhoon above the tank??

Under this scenario you will have a power cable going to the controller, wires from the controller back down to the LED drivers, and then wires back up to the LED's. You may want to re-think the location of the components as I think this would be too hard to do well.

 

[DavidS]

Why the Typhoon above the tank??

Under this scenario you will have a power cable going to the controller, wires from the controller back down to the LED drivers, and then wires back up to the LED's. You may want to re-think the location of the components as I think this would be too hard to do well.

I have a thing for being able to see things with screens on them (so I'm easily amused by displays and blinking lights - it's a nerd thing), though given that I doubt I'll be able to create a tidy enclosure for the Typhon, it's probably better off out of sight. Either way, I still need to get a fair chunk of cable up to the lights. I reckon that 6 core would be the way to go. Only need two runs up to the top that way. Pity it's showing as $32.95 per metre. I'd expect that per roll!

 

[DavidS]

Lol.. I think that is a roll price even though it says sold per metre. Product below it is same stuff at a more reasonable price :P

 

[MagicJ]

I thought the same thing about the price - from memory it was a 30m roll, so around $1.10/m.

You can make up a nice enclosure for an LCD screen, keypad etc it just takes a bit of time - have you seen mine :p

 

[DavidS]

I have, but the typhon uses those annoying pads on it, so no idea how to make allowance for those in an enclosure, short of just drilling holes, and using a pin.

 

[Synodontis]

MagicJ,

Way back in post #93, you where going to order some purple LED's, can I ask what you ordered & how are they working out? What wattage & nm?
Thanks

 

[Synodontis]

Sorry but I cant edit my post's

If one was to go looking for UV LED's, in what range of nm would one look? Prices range from $40 up to $350 per UV LED! silly.

 

[n0rk]

Above 360nm is a waste.

 

[Synodontis]

Thanks n0rk :)

 

[MagicJ]

MagicJ,

Way back in post #93, you where going to order some purple LED's, can I ask what you ordered & how are they working out? What wattage & nm?
Thanks

Haven't got any yet but looking to get some in the next few weeks - have a look at this thread http://www.thereefuge.com/threads/interested-in-violet-or-cyan-leds.1249/

They are rated at 3w but with a maximum current of 700mA, so in reality they will draw around 2.4w. They have a dominant wavelength of 420nm and come with a standard optic of 60 degrees.

 

[firechild]

I have, but the typhon uses those annoying pads on it, so no idea how to make allowance for those in an enclosure, short of just drilling holes, and using a pin.

Would you consider DIY for the Typhon? I have redesigned the PCB in order to make things a bit more simple and moved the buttons to a separate PCB which means they can be placed wherever you like, meaning you can put them into a project box or light fixture.

 

[DavidS]

Would you consider DIY for the Typhon? I have redesigned the PCB in order to make things a bit more simple and moved the buttons to a separate PCB which means they can be placed wherever you like, meaning you can put them into a project box or light fixture.

I'm expecting them in my letter box sometime in the next few days, as the pair I've ordered have landed already.
I don't think it would be too hard to seperate them from the main PCB, though it's nothing something I'm inclined to play around with too much at this stage. Conflicting priorities at the moment, though I'm looking forward to giving one a test run.

 

[MagicJ]

Would you consider DIY for the Typhon? I have redesigned the PCB in order to make things a bit more simple and moved the buttons to a separate PCB which means they can be placed wherever you like, meaning you can put them into a project box or light fixture.

Do you have any spare PCB's? Or an Eagle file?

Just out of interest, what made you design your own PCB rather than use an Arduino or similar??

 

[firechild]

I have the eagle files but haven't yet ordered any boards. My design only allows for 0-10V PWM dimming rather than 0-5 or 0-10V as in the original design.

I liked the design (functionality) of the typhon but the layout was completely unsuitable for my fixture. I know nothing about arduino programming so I liked the idea that I could just load the existing sketch into the typhon. Since this controller would be housed in a hanging fixture, I have no interest in greater functionality (pH, temperature, etc) so the basic concept suited me perfectly.

 

[DavidS]

I received my Typhon today. Currently running on my nano so I can do some testing.

 

[MagicJ]

Good news :) You will have to do a review!!

 

[Joshwaaaa]

Any reason why you want to mount the drivers above the tank?? It makes it easier if you have them near your controller then you can minimise the number of wires going to the LED's.

I used 4 core alarm cable (primarily because I got it for free:)) but it means I only need 3 cables going to the lights - I am also running 5 drivers so 10 wires for the lights and 2 spare, although I plan to put a couple of temp sensors on the lights.

Something like this http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=WB1590&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=992#1

They also have a 6 core cable http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=WB1596&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=992#1

If you are using 3 channels, and have the drivers remote from the LED's then you would only need one of these cables.

I am putting a joiner at the top like this http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PP2026&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=990#1 so I can easily unplug the LED's if required. These come in a number of different sizes to meet your needs.

Cheers

would 13 core irrigation wiring do the job?

http://www.brightonirrigation.com.au/category55_1.htm

http://aquatrad.com.au/products.htm...e=flypage.tpl&product_id=1050&category_id=253