Reef Discussion

Rob · Dec 13, 2012

The killer is the junction temperature where the LED meets the heatsink. In essence its probbaly only a few mm in diameter on the back of the LED. Thus the overall temperature of the heatsink is not really relevent to the temperature at the LED. Obvisouly if we can keep the overall heatsink at room temperature the heat from the junction has the best chance of dissapating quickly. I have not really heard of any premature failures or significant loss in output from any of the LED DIY threads with or without fancy heatsinks or positive fan cooling. Not that I have been activly looking over the last few years..

I have an infrared thermometer we can get some target temperatures from once its biult & if high you can modify the heat sink.
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Looks like your getting closer macca

daniel · Dec 14, 2012

Make a water cooled heat shrink ;) same as a engine :p

Joshwaaaa · Dec 14, 2012

^^ using tank water so it ends up being your heater too

daniel · Dec 14, 2012

Such a good fucken idea I might make a new heat shrink drill a hole down the middle of it and run water throughit :p

newbiereef · Dec 14, 2012

mmmmmm electricity and water !!!!!!!!!

MagicJ · Dec 14, 2012

newbiereef said:
mmmmmm electricity and water !!!!!!!!!

They do it with computers so, in theory it could work with led lights - you just need to make sure there are no leaks ;)

daniel · Dec 14, 2012

Yeh exactly I have my computer water cooled :)

newbiereef · Dec 14, 2012

MagicJ said:
They do it with computers so, in theory it could work with led lights - you just need to make sure there are no leaks ;)

o know but still suss on it i hate electricity

Synodontis · Dec 15, 2012

daniel said:
Make a water cooled heat shrink ;) same as a engine :p

You got a bloke thinking now!
(Hmm, 208 Cree's = lots of almost free heat)

If you can list the size alloy your after, we can get a price for you to. Will put a couple of prices up when I get home, working hard here this morning ya know!

PM'd macca :)

VaultBoy · Dec 15, 2012

You would want to make sure that no water comes into contact with the water... And plastic pipe is a shit heat exchanger. There is your first hurdle you need to find a suitable material that will transfer the heat from the heatsink to the water without leaching any toxic nasties into the water... Something like titanium :rolleyes

Synodontis · Dec 15, 2012

Copper would work for the transfer!:confused:

Yeah, maybe not! :rolleyes

daniel · Dec 15, 2012

Use what thu have in cars, vacuum line that's what they use in computers, when you think about it this wouldn't be hard at all

Synodontis · Dec 15, 2012

Go away @daniel! :p
I have enough to think about all ready & this is now floating around in the void between me ears getting in the way.

Joshwaaaa · Dec 15, 2012

Don't worry me and a mate have already put a lot of thought into the idea.

Synodontis · Dec 15, 2012

Look forward to reading your write up on how you went about it @Joshwaaaa :D

daniel · Dec 15, 2012

Cop that haha
I'm sure it can be done and will not be a hard exercise

firebird · Dec 15, 2012

You're all making life too difficult. This is how you do it......

firebird · Dec 15, 2012

or

OK I'm off now...........

macca_75 · Dec 16, 2012

Is Aluminium Checker plate suitable? Turns out my Brother-in-law has a factory full of this stuff. Thinking obviously pattern side up. Any idea's what gauge would be OK?

newbiereef · Dec 17, 2012

macca_75 said:
Is Aluminium Checker plate suitable? Turns out my Brother-in-law has a factory full of this stuff. Thinking obviously pattern side up. Any idea's what gauge would be OK?

i use a sheet of 3mm plate not check and it gets warm but not hot its 1100 x 550 wide