Reef Discussion

MagicJ

Moderator
Jul 11, 2011
9,650
3,761
Hobart, Tasmania
I don't necessarily disagree with @chimaera - Cyan is between 490-520nm and Turquoise is around 490nm. It depends a lot on the actual led's acquired. But, you could also say the same thing about Blue (465-485nm) and Royal Blue (450-465nm) as there is potentially some overlap (or little difference) between the two colours depending on the actual led's used.

If I was to choose between the 2, I would probably choose Cyan but it would be a close call so I would have no issue with just using Turquoise if that was easier.

No XP-G Cool White either :(
 

macca_75

Member
Apr 22, 2012
2,125
844
what driver did WE get :)
@Rob - WE don't have a driver yet but will be using the Meanwell LDD series. Apparently you can get them locally (thanks Shane) and I have the low down from @MagicJ

@MagicJ - Should I just order the XM-L Cool white (LEDGROUPBUY have stock) <- Are the XM-L as good as the XP-E ones that are out of stock? (or should I just order the XP-E Cool whites from somewhere that also stocks the Cyan <- Maybe Cutters)

Cheers
 

Rob

Member
Apr 26, 2012
743
424
Have not seen those "brick" style converters that take DC input. Suppose wiring could be easier as you only need some big DC supplies and everything else is low voltage. Bet those DC power supplies add up in $$$

You planning to using a bunch of 18V laptop supplies to power the LDD's
 

MagicJ

Moderator
Jul 11, 2011
9,650
3,761
Hobart, Tasmania
Have not seen those "brick" style converters that take DC input. Suppose wiring could be easier as you only need some big DC supplies and everything else is low voltage. Bet those DC power supplies add up in $$$

You planning to using a bunch of 18V laptop supplies to power the LDD's
You can get some 48v 10a supplies for around $50 from ebay (China).
 

MagicJ

Moderator
Jul 11, 2011
9,650
3,761
Hobart, Tasmania
@Rob - WE don't have a driver yet but will be using the Meanwell LDD series. Apparently you can get them locally (thanks Shane) and I have the low down from @MagicJ

@MagicJ - Should I just order the XM-L Cool white (LEDGROUPBUY have stock) <- Are the XM-L as good as the XP-E ones that are out of stock? (or should I just order the XP-E Cool whites from somewhere that also stocks the Cyan <- Maybe Cutters)

Cheers
Don't get XP-E whites - they are 4 generations old. You want XP-G or XP-T.

XM-L's will be OK, but you are paying for something you won't be using - these can be driven at up to 3 amps which is a lot more than you are planning.

You could try here http://www.rapidled.com/cree-xp-g-r5-cool-white-led/ - they also have Cyan :)
 

macca_75

Member
Apr 22, 2012
2,125
844
OK - I got the XT-E NW and XT-E Royal Blue and XP-E Blue (as per the pic last page) - Please tell me these are OK (or should I change the order before it ships?).

I'll get the others from elsewhere.
 

macca_75

Member
Apr 22, 2012
2,125
844
Have not seen those "brick" style converters that take DC input. Suppose wiring could be easier as you only need some big DC supplies and everything else is low voltage. Bet those DC power supplies add up in $$$

You planning to using a bunch of 18V laptop supplies to power the LDD's
1 power supply per "module" = should be around $80 or so locally.
 

macca_75

Member
Apr 22, 2012
2,125
844
For the benefit of noobs like me, what's the model's of the CREE's (from oldest to newest) and is it consistent across colour ranges (eg are all colours released at the same time or is say White at XP-G and Blue at XT-E currently)

Cheers
 

Rob

Member
Apr 26, 2012
743
424
Confused how many units you are going to construct on the first phase.... or is it all or nothing.

I got some $$ for Christmas and the tax man so holding off a light upgrade until I see how yours turn out. With that heatsink and construction method its soo easy to get a professional finish.

Im getting excited to see the first unit complete... you know I'll want you to walk it over to my tank so I can see the effect :)

Like the idea of a raspberrypi controller, you have nearly all the pieces all we need is a few more pwm outputs via a breakout board. How many outputs do you need in total ?

this looks great http://www.adafruit.com/products/815
 

macca_75

Member
Apr 22, 2012
2,125
844
@Rob, he is looking to do 4 sections of heatsink to cover 1/3 of his tank - if when it works out OK he will do the other 2/3's.
Spot on - actually this was your brain child first @Rob

Just as we discussed and why not stick it over your tank first - you know once it's on mine it won't come off.

Wow - think of how your corals will "pop" - your tank has %1000 better livestock.
 

chrispc66

Member
Apr 24, 2012
317
160
Hello, I've just removed the last of my RB / B / 6.5K Crees from my DIY setup. I have 52 x 3W LEDS,all originally crees, now all replaced with Bridgelux LEDS.

Personally I like these, they are easy to solder, have a more robust lens, and don't get so hot.

I find the Bridgelux LEDS bright enough I only run mine at 9.0 V / 700 mA, any higher and they are too bright. I find the Bridgelux are easier to purchase, have a wide selection of colours available and are more than adequate for marine lighting at half the cost.

You may find the upper end Crees way too intense for your tank, and will probably need to dim them anyway.

I wish you all the luck in your build and changeover to LEDS. I've been running DIY LED for two years over a mixed reef, (previously MH), and it took quite a bit of time to tune them in to get the results and appearance I was after.

Cheers.
 

macca_75

Member
Apr 22, 2012
2,125
844
Guess who got some heatsink today. (4 of these little puppies)

View attachment awww.imagerocket.net_photos_1357530845_Heatsink.JPG

Inital thoughts on the "Nano Kit" from MakersLED - really really nice. I know the proof is in the pudding, but the heatsink seems really well laid out & has the potential to look like a really professional unit when completed.

I'll try and take some pics and keep some notes, but for anyone considering a DIY the 4 x 6" versions (includsing fans, screws, end caps, etc) cost me $100 + delivery. Not bad when you price heatsink from anywhere else and this really is made with DIY LED lights in mind.

Also ordered the Cool Whites and Cyan from RapidLED. It's all coming together (so to speak).

In the next few days I'll egt the drivers (assuming they are in stock locally) and then a PSU and everything is ready to go.