Tank Journal Archive

Scottrotton

HTTPS://REEF.EXCHANGE
Oct 17, 2012
479
179
Sydney, Australia
Update, the LED upgrade has started but ive hit a few snags, ive ended up having to use a fair bit of the condictive adhesive as the heat sink is arched and the leds dont sit correctly without it, anyway im currently running 1 of 6 drivers as I wait for some additional article thermal paste to be delivered.

I also got a my first SLR cam so here are a couple of pics under part t5 part LED
Anthia.jpgAnthia2.jpganthia3.jpganthia5.jpgClown2.jpgClown4.jpgyellowtang.jpg
 

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Scottrotton

HTTPS://REEF.EXCHANGE
Oct 17, 2012
479
179
Sydney, Australia
I have but the upgrade isn't ready yet, i'm going to write a little bit about it as it isn't what I expected at all and theres lots of things I could of done better, hopefull someone else may learn from my mistakes :)
 

leodb89

Member
Mar 6, 2012
3,751
876
Sydney
The video walkthrough that @leodb89 asked for is uploading now, should be ready in about 40 mins

http://youtu.be/LmxIQqmKHg4


top video mate thanks for the in depth walkthrough it will surely help many RSM owners :)

looks good on the tank and when looking on the angle while lights are on it looks pretty OEM until you spot the cable connectors although for a first time its surely one of the best ive seen congrats
 

mdk16

Member
Jul 6, 2013
5
1
I finally found someone that completed this. I've searched the forums and internet and nothing, until now! Thank you for posting your led project.

I'm taking delivery of the RSM 650 next friday and would like to complete this mod. I've been speaking with Rapid. Here is my plan. I'm looking to take 8 1" wide by 1/8" thick strips of aluminum and using screws and thermal adhesive to create a flat surface inside the concavities of the stock light. Liket you, I plan on keeping the center unit stock.

My biggest concern has been the heat generated. I'm planning on using the solderless LED's 48 per wing for 96 total. I would think that the aluminum strips in conjunction with the stock heat sink canopy would transfer heat. I was also planning on using a least on fan in each wing to cool. This has been the difficult part of the plan. My first option is to purchase the low profile fan from Steve's leds. This is under 1.25" tall and would blow directly over the leds. Option 2 would be to blow air into the driver compartment of the wing and drill a few holes facing the leds to cool. The splash guard would assist with directing air flow. The last option would be to add some vents into the top of the fixture and mount a fan between the leds to pull air out. I was concerned about the heat but it appears that you are not having that problem?? Do you have any vents?


As long as the heat sink does not reach 110 degrees we should be fine. How hot is yours getting? Are you planning on adding fans?

I also want to wire in the micro switch to shut off the lights when raising the front panel.

Why couldn't you run the wire on the left side through the fixture the same way the T5's were wired?

Any tips, tricks etc is greatly appreciated. I knew there had to be somebody else besides me that wanted this done. The internet is a beautiful thing.

Thanks again,
 

Scottrotton

HTTPS://REEF.EXCHANGE
Oct 17, 2012
479
179
Sydney, Australia
Hi yeah i looked all over the internet for videos but couldnt find one hence what I did here.

I had a similar Idea of have fans inside the unit, there are ventilation holes on each side of the hood, my plan was to use the fans you get in blade servers, add one on each side be a perfect cooling solution, the only reason I havent done it yet is becuase im not paying for server fans when i work in IT, i will get some from the next server upgrade project I do, probably i a week or so. if this doesnt work for what ever reason I will add some fans to the top, i think it will look pretty coo if I add 4 of these to the hood.

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php...=23220&zenid=5858981602b45e8049e7995711d84275

there PWM which means you could wire it to a LED controller and use the dimmable feature to control fan speed. so in theory if you wire it to you LED controller the brighter the lights go the faster the fans work. The geek in me likes this idea.

My heatsink isnt getting hot at all as I cant turn my lights on full or the corals will burn, I only tested it on full power for one day I imagine the highest I will go to is 70-80% power and it doesnt get hot at all, it is winter here though so maybe in summer that may become an issue.

The reason I ran the cables below was because I couldnt fit the ammount of wiring needed to join and power the LEDS over two hoods,

example is

I have 14 cool Whites which needed to be powered by 1 driver, I wanted the spectrum of light to be even across both heatsinks. The stock cable management was design for a single power cable to from inside the unit to outside the unit, it does this through a hollow plastic joint where the hinge lifts up. To avoide this you may be able to design the combination to not have a single driver shared over 2 hoods, I couldnt really do this because

a, I didn't know about it until I ordered everything and didn't order enough drivers to do it
b, my tank is smaller so have less options due to the number of LEDs I can comfortably fit on the heatsink, the light spectum was moreimportant then the 2 cables that hang down.

Tips, hmmm
I maybe wouldnt use use solderless again, for the layout I used, if your going to have a simple white and blue layout evenly spaced then solderless are great, if like me you going for different colour lights and want them in a certain position you may find soldering much neater.

If I was going to do it over I would use different drivers, not becuase they dont work but I would of like to try and place them in the hollow area in the hood rather then have them outside the tank. The meanwell drivers dont fit in the hood.

The curved heatsink but it sounds like you now have a solution for that

May look at a different controller if you want to control more then 3 channels, so far I have decent lighting control so im not going to upgrade yet but mayb in the future.
 

mdk16

Member
Jul 6, 2013
5
1
Thank you. That's good news that its not running hot. I'm planning on four drivers per unit with 12 LEDs per driver. I'm going to stick with blue/white and accent with the center t5s if needed. I'd like to mount the drivers in the chiller chamber.
image.jpg

I'm looking at using these, laying them flat one from each end blowing across the LEDs. I will not be using the aluminum tube just the fans.
 

mdk16

Member
Jul 6, 2013
5
1
One other question. I see you used 6 drivers, I need to use 8 for the additional leds.

I'm trying to understand how to wire these. In other words, I'm looking to have four drivers per heat sink. 2 in the blues, 2 in the whites. Do I need to run four wires, one from each led string out of the canopy to their individual driver or can I connect the whites together and blues together? I assume by your build, that you can combine the colors from the drivers to the controller so that all the same color are dimmed in unison.

It may make more sense once I have it in front of me. Thanks again,
 

Scottrotton

HTTPS://REEF.EXCHANGE
Oct 17, 2012
479
179
Sydney, Australia
no each has to be run seperatly to each driver, theres a few reasons, the first is the min and max ammount of LEDs you can run per driver, typically 7-14 depending on the type of LED you are running.

To explain it better think of the each driver instead of colours you will connect to them but current.

example is 2 drivers.

1 running at 1.3a
2nd running at 700ma

on driver 1 I can run royal blues, cool whites and neutral white if i wanted to becuase they are have the same maximum current level, if i tried to add a red to driver 1 although it may work for a little while it will burn out fast as the red leds tend to need around a 600-700ma

so you see you can have different colours on one driver and all you loose is the control over the overall dimming ability for that colour, if you have a mixture of whites and blues on one driver you wont have any control over the overall colour, if you seperate blue and whites you could have blues running at 70% power and white at 30% if you like the bluer look but vthe other way around if you like the whiter look.

Hope that makes sense. Dont forget that theres also a min LED per driver, if you get this wrong you will blow them.

The chart below shows the current information for different LEDs, it doesnt copy and paste very well but the first number is recommended current, second is max, never exceed max current

What Current Should I Run My LED’s At?

LED Type
Recommended Current
Maximum Current
Cree XP-E (Blue, Royal Blue, Green)
800mA-900mA
1000mA (1A)
Cree XP-G (Neutral and Cool White)
1200-1300mA
1500mA (1.5A)
Cree XM-L (Neutral and Cool White)
1600-2800mA
3000mA (3A)
Cree XT-E (Royal Blue)
700-1300mA
1500mA (1.5A)
Philips Cyan
800-900mA
1000mA (1A)
Philips Rebel Deep Red 660nm/UV
600-700mA
700mA (0.7A)
Moonlight
350mA
350mA (0.35A)
 

mdk16

Member
Jul 6, 2013
5
1
That makes sense. Thanks for clarifying.

I was planning on mounting 12 LEDs per channel where the t5's were. I noticed that you only put a few on the first and last channel. One of my concerns with 12 on the last channel in the back heat sink is that when you are looking at the tank from the front, will you see these LEDs due to the ankle of the canopy. Is this a legitimate concern? Can you see the last row of LEDs when viewing your system? It's hard to see in the video.

It appears that you have nice coverage despite grouping your LEDs towards the center of the tank. Would you lay it out the same way again. I assume you used the 3" wires?
 

Scottrotton

HTTPS://REEF.EXCHANGE
Oct 17, 2012
479
179
Sydney, Australia
I only put 3 LEDS on the edge rows of each cannopy mainly because i wanted as little light as possible to escape, LEDS without optics spead about 150 degrees, I may add some optics to those 6 LEDS to try direct the light better but I wouldnt change the layout.

I dont think its noticeable view wise unless your looking up at the tank and even then its so bright it doesnt really matter.
 

mdk16

Member
Jul 6, 2013
5
1
So to be clear you believe I would be ok with 12 on the front and back rows? To your point, I suppose I could add lenses if necessary.

If you advise against it I can raise them up and only use three rows each.
 

Scottrotton

HTTPS://REEF.EXCHANGE
Oct 17, 2012
479
179
Sydney, Australia
So to be clear you believe I would be ok with 12 on the front and back rows? To your point, I suppose I could add lenses if necessary.

If you advise against it I can raise them up and only use three rows each.

I wouldnt do it if I were you but if I had to i would use optics to direct the light.
 
E

ezza

Guest
I may have missed it, @Scottrotton, where did you buy your tank? I'm considering an RSM if the money fairies visit. i live not far from Sydney so would possibly end up ordering from the same place. I've seen quite some price variation amongst stores online.