Tank Journal Archive
4-5 hrs to change the ballasts to dimmable. Easy to take apart however difficult to get back together to avoid crimping any wires on the sharp aluminum body. Seems like dimable ballasts need an addition wire, wired to the two ends that are wired in series. Anyhow it's not just a simple ballast swap. So step 1 in the profilux implementation complete. Now to mount the ghl powerbar and profilux unit itself. I got the ghl 1-10v breakout box so connects via a premade cable to the profilux and have hard wired he ballasts. Although I have 3 dual ballasts I will only use two outputs of the profilux so two ballasts will be in parrallel.
Would not recommend changing over to dimable ballasts on the powermodule, it's not for he faint hearted.
Sliding the old ballasts out
On a good note the dimmable ballasts even have the Australian C Tick NSW approvals of electrical safety.
Would not recommend changing over to dimable ballasts on the powermodule, it's not for he faint hearted.
Sliding the old ballasts out
On a good note the dimmable ballasts even have the Australian C Tick NSW approvals of electrical safety.
New addition today.. its kinda weired its not livestock however could not resist this rock formation. Not quite sure what I am going to do with it however would form the foundation for a killer zoa garden highlighted with some SPS (blue of course). Maybe a rescape at Xmas is in order however do not want to loose too much live rock. Not keen on just sitting this on the sand as it would not be very realistic however if it was strategically placed infront or around existing live rock It will provide some terrific shelfs.
The structure feels rough and gritty so corals should take well however my biggest concern is that its hollow. The LFS actual said the structure is porus so don't worry about it however I am concerned with stagnant water inside it. Was thinking I will try tonight and fill it up with water and see if it really is porus. My first thought was to fill it with sand then seal it up at the bottom. Any thoughts ? Really want something like plaster I can poor into it. or just leave it hollow ?
Whats the fastest way to age this thing, Having 2-3 months of this white structure in the tank is not something I really want. Maybe put it in the sump however my the sump is not lit or I could talk macca_75 into housing it in his sump :)
The structure feels rough and gritty so corals should take well however my biggest concern is that its hollow. The LFS actual said the structure is porus so don't worry about it however I am concerned with stagnant water inside it. Was thinking I will try tonight and fill it up with water and see if it really is porus. My first thought was to fill it with sand then seal it up at the bottom. Any thoughts ? Really want something like plaster I can poor into it. or just leave it hollow ?
Whats the fastest way to age this thing, Having 2-3 months of this white structure in the tank is not something I really want. Maybe put it in the sump however my the sump is not lit or I could talk macca_75 into housing it in his sump :)
@macca_75 has been kind enough to kick start the coralline off for me. excited about getting it into the tank and see what structure I can build around it however probably a January project... Will probably look for some very flat zoa frags and smaller acros. It will be a great 2013 "grow out" project. Any excuse to buy more coral :)
OK, Inspired by @macca_75 I have made some progress this weekend on my DIY LED lights. Mounted and wired the drivers. I ended up sawing off 8" from the 48 length as there seemed little point having the heatsink the full length of the tank.
Control
Want to use 6 channels from my profilux and enable "cloud" function. That is why I have RHS and LHS driver banks. I want the "cloud" to be able to transition across the tank. I think just doing the 3-up split Right & left side should provide the effect.
LED Objectives
The ATI T5 are sometimes too bright and have a lot of light splash outside of the display tank. Really like the idea of being able to dim and also get the coral to pop during some part of the photo period, whilst trying to keep a somewhat realistic colour. I do like a blue dominated colour during the day however in the evening would like to dim so the aquarium does not dominate the room light wise.
This was the plan a few weeks ago although has changed a little with qty of LED's and drivers. I am planning on clustering the LED's and using the 3-UP's and OCW which is 3 LED's mounted onto the same star. This is supposed to provide better blending.
The drivers are mounted onto some aluminium angle. This slides into the heatsink and there is probably 1/4" gap between the bottom of the drivers and the tip of the heatsink.
I ended up running 4 power cords. There is a good airgap and trust with the size of the heatsink It will not cause a heat problem. It all fits really nicely. I have NOT run the dimming wiring as yet. Plan on using simply pot's in the testing phase then connect to my profilux.
Grommets allow me to pass the wiring between the drivers and the LED's
As I am still awaiting the 3-UP's so looks like I'll be another month before I can get this running.
Control
Want to use 6 channels from my profilux and enable "cloud" function. That is why I have RHS and LHS driver banks. I want the "cloud" to be able to transition across the tank. I think just doing the 3-up split Right & left side should provide the effect.
LED Objectives
The ATI T5 are sometimes too bright and have a lot of light splash outside of the display tank. Really like the idea of being able to dim and also get the coral to pop during some part of the photo period, whilst trying to keep a somewhat realistic colour. I do like a blue dominated colour during the day however in the evening would like to dim so the aquarium does not dominate the room light wise.
This was the plan a few weeks ago although has changed a little with qty of LED's and drivers. I am planning on clustering the LED's and using the 3-UP's and OCW which is 3 LED's mounted onto the same star. This is supposed to provide better blending.
The drivers are mounted onto some aluminium angle. This slides into the heatsink and there is probably 1/4" gap between the bottom of the drivers and the tip of the heatsink.
I ended up running 4 power cords. There is a good airgap and trust with the size of the heatsink It will not cause a heat problem. It all fits really nicely. I have NOT run the dimming wiring as yet. Plan on using simply pot's in the testing phase then connect to my profilux.
Grommets allow me to pass the wiring between the drivers and the LED's
As I am still awaiting the 3-UP's so looks like I'll be another month before I can get this running.
Tank and leathers have recovered from my water change two weeks ago where I also lowered the salinity and maybe blasted my torch and leather with a low SG top up. Anyhow tank again looking fantastic for the last two days. Shit I hope these LED's will not stuff my DT.
My sewatec order is taking ages as Im told a new model Tunze return pump (24VDC silence) is close to shipping. It was for a spare anyhow however also took the opportunity to get the expansion boards for the profilux to expand the 0-10V output for another 4 channels to drive these LED's.
Final arrangement, Although may slightly adjust placement when fitting stars
Don't think I can do much more with this until 3UP leds have shipped at the end of the month
My sewatec order is taking ages as Im told a new model Tunze return pump (24VDC silence) is close to shipping. It was for a spare anyhow however also took the opportunity to get the expansion boards for the profilux to expand the 0-10V output for another 4 channels to drive these LED's.
Final arrangement, Although may slightly adjust placement when fitting stars
Don't think I can do much more with this until 3UP leds have shipped at the end of the month
Got my new LED's up and running the past 2 days, basically as per pic above although added more TV's between the clusters for a total of 16 violets 420-425 nm.
I don't really understand all this 6500 1400k stuff however if I just run the 3UP's (2xRB 1xNW) and turn up the NW it has a more yellow hue about it, then cranking up the OCW's then cancel this yellow out creating a more brilliant white which is great. I think I am happy with the colours in not being too blue, in fact I would like mine a little bluer (Is that a word !) Now saying that I have lenses on the OCW, the 3UP's have no lenses fitted at this stage so are 120 degrees. I have read mixed reports on the 3UP lenses as they are 40 degree and apparently you need to elevate the light quite high using these narrow optics. The OCW's and TV have a 60 degree lens already integrated onto the star.
I must say I was amazed at which corals fluoresce using TV with a small amount of RB, although now I have this ability I think it kind of looks fake as any yellow fish are now orange. Happy with the money I spent on a DIY (probably 800.00 ) although glad I did not go down the ecotech or GHL path. I may of been spoilt by my ATI T5 power module as these provided a "crisp" light.
I am happy with the power of the lights and will take some time before I can run them at 100% before frying the corals. Have no regrets not being able to control the three individual colours of the OCW's I think they do a good job of creating white to balance out the Blues.
I have each of the drivers on a POT (6) so can adjust manually NW/RB/TV and OCW. I can adjust the NW and RB for each side of the tank. I had done this to simulate cloud cover via the controller however having the OCW on a single driver I do not know how well this will work. The lowest setting at about 10% still provides alot of light so not really sure if cloud simulation is going to be all that good anyway. Once I get a set of colours for sunrise, midday, sunset I will connect up the profilux outputs and remove the POT's.
Overall happy with the project, Ill chalk this one up as a success. Now in saying that I have let the tank lapse over the last month and really need to do some care & maintenance.
I also think with the LED's my glass may not dust up as much as the T5's as the last few days the glass still looks crystal clear.
Any tips on ramp rates and what LED's to use for each of the light times during the day ?
I don't really understand all this 6500 1400k stuff however if I just run the 3UP's (2xRB 1xNW) and turn up the NW it has a more yellow hue about it, then cranking up the OCW's then cancel this yellow out creating a more brilliant white which is great. I think I am happy with the colours in not being too blue, in fact I would like mine a little bluer (Is that a word !) Now saying that I have lenses on the OCW, the 3UP's have no lenses fitted at this stage so are 120 degrees. I have read mixed reports on the 3UP lenses as they are 40 degree and apparently you need to elevate the light quite high using these narrow optics. The OCW's and TV have a 60 degree lens already integrated onto the star.
I must say I was amazed at which corals fluoresce using TV with a small amount of RB, although now I have this ability I think it kind of looks fake as any yellow fish are now orange. Happy with the money I spent on a DIY (probably 800.00 ) although glad I did not go down the ecotech or GHL path. I may of been spoilt by my ATI T5 power module as these provided a "crisp" light.
I am happy with the power of the lights and will take some time before I can run them at 100% before frying the corals. Have no regrets not being able to control the three individual colours of the OCW's I think they do a good job of creating white to balance out the Blues.
I have each of the drivers on a POT (6) so can adjust manually NW/RB/TV and OCW. I can adjust the NW and RB for each side of the tank. I had done this to simulate cloud cover via the controller however having the OCW on a single driver I do not know how well this will work. The lowest setting at about 10% still provides alot of light so not really sure if cloud simulation is going to be all that good anyway. Once I get a set of colours for sunrise, midday, sunset I will connect up the profilux outputs and remove the POT's.
Overall happy with the project, Ill chalk this one up as a success. Now in saying that I have let the tank lapse over the last month and really need to do some care & maintenance.
I also think with the LED's my glass may not dust up as much as the T5's as the last few days the glass still looks crystal clear.
Any tips on ramp rates and what LED's to use for each of the light times during the day ?
Tank update for March 2013
Params acceptable considering a little lack of focus the past 2 months whilst I construct my new LED's.
380 K+, 8.4 dkh, 450ca, 1120mg, 0.00 phos and 0.5 nitrates, not bad considering only a 20% water change the last 2 months. I will increase the mg over the next 4 days and try and get back on track. Just got a salifert potasium kit so will test over easter.
Zeovit... Have been dosing Sponge power, Coral vitaliser and Pohls xtra over the last few months, probably dosing too much so will work on a dosing schedule having just taken delivery of B-Balance and some amino acids.
LED Lights... Settled in very well and have not vapourised anything as yet, positioned it still high above the DT. Still using the manual dimming for each channel using 6 simple pot's. Really good thing about splitting the same channel right and left is that I can run the left side slightly brighter than my softy side which is now nearly up to the water surface. Having to trim significant pieces of Xenia every couple of weeks now and hope it does not turn into a weed.
Coral growth... Wow softies are growing like crazy, never seen such growth as I am currently getting which I contribute to the new lights + the zeovit diet.
Overall.. The water clarity is fantastic no micro bubbles best it has ever been.
March achievements
Cleaned/stripped down skimmer (tunze 9011)
Built and installed new LED lights (VERY happy)
Second water change for the year :( Must get back into regular WC -probably every 2 weeks @ 15% (~50l)
April focus..
Change out my prefilters on my RO/DI system (PSI) its been 2.5 years !
Get the zeovit dosing schedule underway and consistent
Pray I see some colour back in some of the Stags, think my overdose of zeovit has caused this.
Adjust 2 part dosing, increase mg and trim ca and alk down slightly.
Change TLF carbon reactor to a passive bag of 0.25l carbon in the sump.
Finally get lights dimming via profilux
I have two colonies of dead SPS really need to remove and make way for some new SPS.
Focus on ULNS and repeatability doing params and WC
Swap over the MP10 to the MP40 which is sitting in the cupboard for the last 3 months and get profilux control of the vortechs. (this is to increase flow on the planned SPS dominated side of the scape which will take form in May)
Iphone app and wireless router installation at DT to support profilux & future Raspberrypi
Plus take some pictures for my TJ :)
Keep dreaming of a couple of scolys
May
Coral crazy month, hope to get 2 larger SPS colonies +some smaller fill ins, which can start to re-biuld the left hand side of the aquascape.
Reconsider what I am going to do with my two blue clams... wow they have grown
June..
Sump removal and clean
Raspberrypi (version2) web monitoring established again.
Params acceptable considering a little lack of focus the past 2 months whilst I construct my new LED's.
380 K+, 8.4 dkh, 450ca, 1120mg, 0.00 phos and 0.5 nitrates, not bad considering only a 20% water change the last 2 months. I will increase the mg over the next 4 days and try and get back on track. Just got a salifert potasium kit so will test over easter.
Zeovit... Have been dosing Sponge power, Coral vitaliser and Pohls xtra over the last few months, probably dosing too much so will work on a dosing schedule having just taken delivery of B-Balance and some amino acids.
LED Lights... Settled in very well and have not vapourised anything as yet, positioned it still high above the DT. Still using the manual dimming for each channel using 6 simple pot's. Really good thing about splitting the same channel right and left is that I can run the left side slightly brighter than my softy side which is now nearly up to the water surface. Having to trim significant pieces of Xenia every couple of weeks now and hope it does not turn into a weed.
Coral growth... Wow softies are growing like crazy, never seen such growth as I am currently getting which I contribute to the new lights + the zeovit diet.
Overall.. The water clarity is fantastic no micro bubbles best it has ever been.
March achievements
Cleaned/stripped down skimmer (tunze 9011)
Built and installed new LED lights (VERY happy)
Second water change for the year :( Must get back into regular WC -probably every 2 weeks @ 15% (~50l)
April focus..
Change out my prefilters on my RO/DI system (PSI) its been 2.5 years !
Get the zeovit dosing schedule underway and consistent
Pray I see some colour back in some of the Stags, think my overdose of zeovit has caused this.
Adjust 2 part dosing, increase mg and trim ca and alk down slightly.
Change TLF carbon reactor to a passive bag of 0.25l carbon in the sump.
Finally get lights dimming via profilux
I have two colonies of dead SPS really need to remove and make way for some new SPS.
Focus on ULNS and repeatability doing params and WC
Swap over the MP10 to the MP40 which is sitting in the cupboard for the last 3 months and get profilux control of the vortechs. (this is to increase flow on the planned SPS dominated side of the scape which will take form in May)
Iphone app and wireless router installation at DT to support profilux & future Raspberrypi
Plus take some pictures for my TJ :)
Keep dreaming of a couple of scolys
May
Coral crazy month, hope to get 2 larger SPS colonies +some smaller fill ins, which can start to re-biuld the left hand side of the aquascape.
Reconsider what I am going to do with my two blue clams... wow they have grown
June..
Sump removal and clean
Raspberrypi (version2) web monitoring established again.
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