Reef Discussion
Good question! Let's see ...
The initial 'build' was $49:
Pump $13 (Bunnings)
(the following including shipping)
Power adapter $2.50
3m 2core wire $5
1m wire heat wrap $2.50
4x plugs $4
So total for the ATO I think runs $78.50
Then we have:
Custom made acrylic bracket and shared postage $18
Acrylic screws $4
So total including ATO and bracket a shade over $100.
The initial 'build' was $49:
- PCB
- Sockets (5x)
- 2x NC float switches
- 1x NO float switch
- Jiffy box
- regular post
Pump $13 (Bunnings)
(the following including shipping)
Power adapter $2.50
3m 2core wire $5
1m wire heat wrap $2.50
4x plugs $4
So total for the ATO I think runs $78.50
Then we have:
Custom made acrylic bracket and shared postage $18
Acrylic screws $4
So total including ATO and bracket a shade over $100.
Alright I am almost ready to go. Just need to work out whether I need to extend the float switch wires, hoping not to avoid having to get a soldering iron and heat wrap!
So to confirm my floatswitch setup.
2x NO switches in the bracket, fitted to the sump return area. Normal water level should be at the top of the bottom switch, so when the water falls the switch opens and starts the pump. Top NO switch is a backup in case the bottom one sticks, so if the water level covers the top switch it will close and stop the pump.
1x NC switch in the reservoir, if the water falls below this switch then the circuit is broken and pump can't start. Any tips on how to hold this switch, given the bracket is for the sump?
Next challenge is the acrylic bracket ... firechild tips on bending this? Need to heat it first, if so how - just naked flame?
So to confirm my floatswitch setup.
2x NO switches in the bracket, fitted to the sump return area. Normal water level should be at the top of the bottom switch, so when the water falls the switch opens and starts the pump. Top NO switch is a backup in case the bottom one sticks, so if the water level covers the top switch it will close and stop the pump.
1x NC switch in the reservoir, if the water falls below this switch then the circuit is broken and pump can't start. Any tips on how to hold this switch, given the bracket is for the sump?
Next challenge is the acrylic bracket ... firechild tips on bending this? Need to heat it first, if so how - just naked flame?
I just had a cat's arse trophy!!!!
My ATO just jammed and flooded my tank with fresh water.
I was watching the cricket and decided to go and do something on the puter in my office (where the tank is). I was only in there less than 5 min when the sound of water splashing on the carpet caught my attention.
After a few minutes of panic and switching off power points, I was replacing tank water with salt water on hand.
I can believe I was lucky enough to catch it when I did.
Bad thing was I had the last of my salt already mixed so I wasn't able to make up a slightly stronger batch.
I'll keep doing a bit of water swapping this evening to bring it back, it's not too far out of balance luckily.
Bugga :confused:
My ATO just jammed and flooded my tank with fresh water.
I was watching the cricket and decided to go and do something on the puter in my office (where the tank is). I was only in there less than 5 min when the sound of water splashing on the carpet caught my attention.
After a few minutes of panic and switching off power points, I was replacing tank water with salt water on hand.
I can believe I was lucky enough to catch it when I did.
Bad thing was I had the last of my salt already mixed so I wasn't able to make up a slightly stronger batch.
I'll keep doing a bit of water swapping this evening to bring it back, it's not too far out of balance luckily.
Bugga :confused:
Shit daveH that both sucks and sounds extremely lucky that you caught it! What happened with the ATO, any idea?
Don't why they both failed. I was too busy to notice what position they were in when I stopped everything.
I just noticed the water blew one of my timers - nothing expensive luckily.
Luckily the drawer under the tank didn't get wet, the water flow went around it and onto the floor, phew!!
I might end up designing a switchboard/cabinet style setup beside the tank on the wall that will be more convenient in emergencies.
Fish and coral all look fine, I'll get the water back to what it should be tomorrow when I get some more salt.
I just noticed the water blew one of my timers - nothing expensive luckily.
Luckily the drawer under the tank didn't get wet, the water flow went around it and onto the floor, phew!!
I might end up designing a switchboard/cabinet style setup beside the tank on the wall that will be more convenient in emergencies.
Fish and coral all look fine, I'll get the water back to what it should be tomorrow when I get some more salt.
Yeah mate, that all sounds right. As far as bending, I used a hot air gun with a wide mouth attachment which did the job pretty nicely. Don't see why a flame shouldn't work, just try to get an even amounht of heat across the piece you want to bend. I used a couple of pieces of wood to hold it in place while it cooled because you don't want to put your fingers on it for too long.Alright I am almost ready to go. Just need to work out whether I need to extend the float switch wires, hoping not to avoid having to get a soldering iron and heat wrap!
So to confirm my floatswitch setup.
2x NO switches in the bracket, fitted to the sump return area. Normal water level should be at the top of the bottom switch, so when the water falls the switch opens and starts the pump. Top NO switch is a backup in case the bottom one sticks, so if the water level covers the top switch it will close and stop the pump.
1x NC switch in the reservoir, if the water falls below this switch then the circuit is broken and pump can't start. Any tips on how to hold this switch, given the bracket is for the sump?
Next challenge is the acrylic bracket ... firechild tips on bending this? Need to heat it first, if so how - just naked flame?
So I FINALLY got around to wiring this up yesterday ... and ... nothing. No power going through, no matter what floatswitch state I tried. Power was going into the board, but not through to the pump. Not sure whether it is the board, the floatswitches or something else ...
Not sure what to do now ... tempted to just buy an off the shelf ATO. Should have known that a DIY one, even with 70% of the prework done, would be beyond my abysmal skills.
Not sure what to do now ... tempted to just buy an off the shelf ATO. Should have known that a DIY one, even with 70% of the prework done, would be beyond my abysmal skills.
It appears there is an issue with SOME of the sockets. Dave mentioned this to me early on (and with his earlier posts you can see he fixed his) but at the time it appeared that the others were working fine. What has happened is I have ordered 2 lots of 50 sockets. There are 3 pins on each socket and 2 connections (+ and -). On most sockets like this, the rear pin corresponds to the centre pin in the socket, the side pin connects to the outside of the socket and the middle pin is a blank. It seems that in one lot, the middle pin and the side pin are reversed. This can be easily rectified by soldering a short wire across the 2 pins in question. Unfortunately there seems to be no way of knowing which are the good ones and which are not as they look identical.
My apologies, I guess is one of the dangers of buying components from China.
My apologies, I guess is one of the dangers of buying components from China.
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