Tank Journal Archive
So all I bought myself a new fish.
1 yellow tang seems to be in good condition
Also bought and installed a phosphate reactor, 2 little fish 150 and I can already see a difference in algae growth.
Traiding standards also contacted me today about my t5 globes that never made it in one piece from gupys so I will keep you posted on that but it's looking good
Now for the bad news, my second hand hailea chiller 300 is busted. Lated me about 2 month ;(
It shows the temp and even tries to kick in when it goes over the temp but the water isn't cold anymore. If anyone has any tricks I would love to here them.
1 yellow tang seems to be in good condition
Also bought and installed a phosphate reactor, 2 little fish 150 and I can already see a difference in algae growth.
Traiding standards also contacted me today about my t5 globes that never made it in one piece from gupys so I will keep you posted on that but it's looking good
Now for the bad news, my second hand hailea chiller 300 is busted. Lated me about 2 month ;(
It shows the temp and even tries to kick in when it goes over the temp but the water isn't cold anymore. If anyone has any tricks I would love to here them.
sorry I didn't see these messages guys, dont think I had any notifications :) anyway heres an update,
as far as guppys go trading standards said I should take them to court becuase they refused to refund but I really dont have time at the minute, very busy with the dental business, www.zenodental.com.au if you know any dentists please send them my way ;) anyway shameless plug out of the way heres to the update
I seem to be forever battling phosphates, ill get the exact levels at some point and post them but it seems my RODI water has 0.8 phosphates and obvisouly thats going back into the tank. Im not sure if its a faulty test though ive only had the unit 6 months or so, i estimate 2000 litres has come out of it so far.
Anyway i bought a 2 little fish reactor and ran it for 4 weeks, didn't really work so far so ive adjusted the flow, it was slightly higher than 150 LPH so ive lowered to 80LPH, slime alage seems to have slowed, im also dosing zeostart 3 and nopox from RSM to try and get it under control.
Only have 3 fish, still 2 clowns and a yellow tang so i doubt its overstocked.
had my first coral loss due to bad water conditions which was a purple/green BTA shouldnt of bought it really but couldnt resist. When that died a went and got a pink tipped BTA to prove to myself I can keep them, so far it seems to be doig great i feed it about 4-5 times a week, its grown much bigger but ive only had it a month so ill see how it goes, apart form alage my params are about perfect. I've started monitoring the less critical wataer params, like copper, alk, mag, calc and ive been keeping them in the ideal range.
As for the chiller, it just manages to keep the water under 27 so I decided to leave it to see out the warm weather here in NSW and come next summer ill buy a new one with warranty.
Anyway heres some updated pics, I ended up buying a mac the other day so its easier for me toupload pics now via photo stream so let me know if you want a better look at anything.
Overall pretty happy with the tank and hopefully can overcome the slime string algae problem.
as far as guppys go trading standards said I should take them to court becuase they refused to refund but I really dont have time at the minute, very busy with the dental business, www.zenodental.com.au if you know any dentists please send them my way ;) anyway shameless plug out of the way heres to the update
I seem to be forever battling phosphates, ill get the exact levels at some point and post them but it seems my RODI water has 0.8 phosphates and obvisouly thats going back into the tank. Im not sure if its a faulty test though ive only had the unit 6 months or so, i estimate 2000 litres has come out of it so far.
Anyway i bought a 2 little fish reactor and ran it for 4 weeks, didn't really work so far so ive adjusted the flow, it was slightly higher than 150 LPH so ive lowered to 80LPH, slime alage seems to have slowed, im also dosing zeostart 3 and nopox from RSM to try and get it under control.
Only have 3 fish, still 2 clowns and a yellow tang so i doubt its overstocked.
had my first coral loss due to bad water conditions which was a purple/green BTA shouldnt of bought it really but couldnt resist. When that died a went and got a pink tipped BTA to prove to myself I can keep them, so far it seems to be doig great i feed it about 4-5 times a week, its grown much bigger but ive only had it a month so ill see how it goes, apart form alage my params are about perfect. I've started monitoring the less critical wataer params, like copper, alk, mag, calc and ive been keeping them in the ideal range.
As for the chiller, it just manages to keep the water under 27 so I decided to leave it to see out the warm weather here in NSW and come next summer ill buy a new one with warranty.
Anyway heres some updated pics, I ended up buying a mac the other day so its easier for me toupload pics now via photo stream so let me know if you want a better look at anything.
Overall pretty happy with the tank and hopefully can overcome the slime string algae problem.
Tank looks good. From what i understand though if you have next to no Nitrate NOPOX will do SFA to reduce your phosphates.
I would go buy some RO water rather than use your setup and see if that helps. give it a couple of weeks. $4 for 20L.
The RO I get from my LFS has no detectable phosphate. I reckon there is something wrong with your RODI kit.
I would go buy some RO water rather than use your setup and see if that helps. give it a couple of weeks. $4 for 20L.
The RO I get from my LFS has no detectable phosphate. I reckon there is something wrong with your RODI kit.
I am going to try this. Because I don't have anyway to store enough purchased rodi water for a couple of weeks. I will stop water changes for a month or 2, let my 2lf phos reactor remove the remaining phosphates. If my problems subside I know it's the rodi filter if they stay it could be something else. Maybe the rock I used
Water changes will reduce Nitrates.
But you need Nitrates to help remove Phosphates. However, there is a high level of phosphates in his RO water.
@Scottrotton are you mixing your own salt water from your RODI as well? as using it for evaporation top up?
Well guys I took both my DT water and a sample of my RO water to my LFS, they tested and my RO water came back with 0 phosphates meaning my RSM test kit is wrong.
The phosphates must be coming from somewhere else as the DT reads 1PPM
I will continue to do water changes and skim heavily and hope I get get them under control over the next month or so.
The phosphates must be coming from somewhere else as the DT reads 1PPM
I will continue to do water changes and skim heavily and hope I get get them under control over the next month or so.
what did your LFS use to test the phosphates?
how many grams of media are you running, thats very slow i wouldnt think youd be getting the amount needed for your tank tumbling :/
im not 100% sure on this but im pretty confident in saying i dont think you should be dosing both, you are potentially double carbon dosing and you will result in greater implications once you feel you have reached the desired level...id slowly come off them and to a point where you're only using the zeostart3
@NiCd could help with this part?
You can dose both at the same time its kinda like running vodka sugar and vinegar is better than running a single on of them by themselves. The difficulty will be working out the doseages and ou have to be aware that overdosing can show similar signs to underdosing so following this method is not for the inexperenced.
Personally I find the zeostart to be a well enough rounded carbon source to not have to worry out any others.
As others have pointed out it sounds like you have hit the redfield ratio issue so adding more carbon sources is not going to help. You can either run a ferrious/alumium/lanthium based product, carry out water changes, embrace the .1 club glory or dose a nitrate source.
Personally I find the zeostart to be a well enough rounded carbon source to not have to worry out any others.
As others have pointed out it sounds like you have hit the redfield ratio issue so adding more carbon sources is not going to help. You can either run a ferrious/alumium/lanthium based product, carry out water changes, embrace the .1 club glory or dose a nitrate source.
come join the .8 club :)
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